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By 

Chas. J.: Stone 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap.X- Copyright No 

Shell-5-3.n 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



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V ^^^^^^^H 




Superlative System 



.OF., 



(utting [odies' Garments 



.BASED UPON., 



A SCIENTIFIC, SURE AND SIMPLE METHOD 

GIVING THE CORRECT PROPORTIONS FOR EACH TYPE OF FORM OF 
EVERY SIZE, WITH VARIATIONS FOR ALL KINDS OF 
DISPROPORTIONATE SHAPES AND FORMS 



BYl 

CHAS. J. STONE 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



ILLUSTRATED BY PLATES OF FINELY ENGRAVED DIAGRAMS, WITH FULL 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS 

STYLES OF LADIES' GARMENTS 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL 

CHICAGO 






1^ 



Copyrighted 1897 by Chas. J. Stone C' 



o ■^^ 



^GO\C 



INDEX, 



Preface, 

Introduction, - - . ; 

Proportion Table, 

Proportionate Division, 

Proportion in Practice, 

Dress Bodice, by Shoulder Measures, 

Dress Bodice, by Short Measure, 

Basque, by Shoulder Measures, 

D. B. Frock, 

Fancy Waist, by Proportions, 

Jacket and Vest, by Proportions, 

D. B. Vest, by Proportions, 

Cutaway Frock, by Shoulder Measures, 

D. B. Cutaway Jacket, by Proportions, 

Long Basque and Vest, by Shoulder Measures, 



Principles of Sleeve Cutting, 

The Foundation Skirt, 

Skirts, 

D. B. Jacket, 

The Balloon Sleeve, 

D. B. Jacket, by Shoulder Measure, 

The Leg of Mutton Sleeve, 

The New Bishop Sleeve, 

D. B. Coat, by Proportions, 



36, 37. 



42, 43. 



PAGE. 

6 The Melon Sleeve, 

and 8 S. B. Box Overcoat, by Short Measure 

9 Coaching Coat, by Proportions, 

10-13 Capes, 

14-15 Bicycle Coat, by Proportions, 

16-17 Cycling Knickers, 

18-19 Divided Riding Skirt, 

20-21 Bicycle Skirt, 

22-23 Divided Bicycle Skirt, 

24-25 Bicycle Cap, 

26-27 Leggins, 

28-29 Riding Breeches, 

30-31 Riding Jacket, 

32-33 Riding Skirt, 

34-35 Riding Skirt, 

38, 39 Variations, 

40-41 General Information, 

44, 45 Our Cutting School, 

46-47 Price List of Patterns, Ladies', - 

48-49 Works on Cutting, 

50-51 Terms for Instructions, 

52-53 Price List of Block Patterns, Gentlemen's, 

54-55 Cutters' and Tailors' Supplies, 
56-57 



PAGE. 

59 

60-61 

62 63 

64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 

70-71 

72-73 

74-75 

76 

77 

77 

78 

7.8-79 

80-81 

- 82-83 

- 84-85, 86-87 

88-89, 90-91 

92-93 
94 

95 
96 

97 

98 

99 



(V, 



PREFACE, 

jCTT is a fact which observing tailors will doubtless have noticed, that ladies' 
J^ tailoring has of late years grown more and more important to the trade. 

This fact is emphasized by the realization of cutters and tailors that there 
is marked inability on the part of many to meet the demand for the making of 
ladies' garments in the best manner. Many tailors and hundreds of cutters have 
experienced this difificulty — a difficulty arising from the absence of any adequate 
system of ladies' garment cutting as well as making. 

It is to be regretted that works of this nature are lacking. It is true that 
there are many works treating of this subject; but are they adequate to the 
exacting demands of to-day? Are they founded on true and invariable princi- 
ples, which cutters can implicitly rely upon in their daily work in all its range and 
sweep? I think not. Even the very best existing works on the cutting of ladies' 
garments, which assume to have for basis a fundamental principle, are soon 
found to be lacking in one respect or another. In point of fact, too many of 
these are based on an inadequate if not a wrong system, the best of them upon a 
system only half perceived and now and again abandoned in its application. 

I believe that my "Superlative Method of Cutting Ladies' Garments" is a 
work which not only makes up for the defects found in others, but in its origi- 
nality, exactness and simplicity fills a want long felt by cutters. Like my other 
works on cutting it is based on proportions, using for variations both shoulder 
measure and short measure methods, and makes an invaluable companion work 
to my "Superlative System of Cutting Men's Garments." It is, I believe, the 
most comprehensive work extant, covering all points in cutting ladies' garments. 

THE AUTHOR. 



(VI.) 



INTRODUCTION. 

§ERHAPS in nr other branch of tailoring can a system based on the pro- 
portions of the body be so well applied as in the making of ladies' gar- 
ments. Perfect fit and grace is the desideratum; for awkwardness is 
quite inexcusable in a woman, and it is the tailor's object to overcome all 
defects of form and the many difficulties found in making her garments. 

There is no more beautiful garment than a gown gracefully draped over 
the form of a woman, and there is no better method of arriving at this end, 
so far as the tailor is concerned, than the employment of a system based on 
proportions. Women are more exacting and particular in respect to their 
clothing than men. They demand not so much utility as beauty. They demand 
perfection in their dress in every pose, every condition, without constraint of 
limb or muscle, which would detract from grace; in a word, they demand per- 
fect ease, free, unincumbered, which is only obtainable with well fitting and 
well made garments. 

The attainment of all this is rather difficult for the cutter and tailor, but it 
is greatly simplified by the employment of the system explained in the pages of 
this volume. It allows for all possible variation, originality and skill in the 
cutting and making of all parts of ladies' garments, allowing adherence to pre- 
vailing styles, to individual wishes, and that certain unity in a tailor made suit 
which is demanded and only artistically attained by the system of proportions. 

The art of constructing garments according to the variable forms and styles 
of costumes is an attainment that can not be reached without deep study and 
actual experience. The basis of the system is determinate, but the style and 
fashion is always fluctuating, and the cutter must learn the principles embodied 
in the system so that he can bring them into a practical application in his every 
day practice in cutting garments according to the current fashion. 

The fundamental principle upon which this system is based is the propor- 
tionate division of the female form, and the study of these proportions will give 
the cutter a most comprehensive understanding of the foundation that he is to 
build on. The proportionate figures are those that are neither stooped nor 
over-erect and when all the different lengths correspond with height, and when 
all the different widths correspond with the breast circumference, the figure may 
be tall and sliro or short and stout and still be in proportion. 

(VII.) 



vin. INTRODUCTION. 



There will be found in this work two kinds of proportionate drafts, to which 
I wish to call the cutter's attention. The proportionate draft on page 17 is drafted 
by the strap and shoulder measures. By the comparison of the two measures 
as follows we find that the strap length is strictly proportionate; the upper 
shoulder is 23^^, half of this is 11^, less one inch makes it 10 J^, which corres- 
ponds to the strap measure taken, and by drawing the line from M to C the 
proper length of strap at point N is obtained. 

On page 20-21 will be found another draft similar to the draft on page 17, 
the only difference being in the depth of scye. At first glance it would seem 
that the two drafts had been produced by two different methods, but on closer 
observation it will be found that they are both the same in principle, although 
a different method has been used in obtaining the same result. The only difference 
is that the shoulder seam on the draft on page 21 is higher at point 17 than the 
shoulder seam on draft on page 17 at point X. By studying the draft on pages 
14 and 15 the different methods of obtaining the depth of scye is seen at a 
glance. The distance from A to B is It height, and from B to C 14^ breast, plus 
}^ inch, or if the upper shoulder measure is used to obtain depth of scye, A to C 
is yi upper shoulder and }^ inch, and C to B ':( breast plus }< inch. The 
distance from A to B is in this case regulated by the shoulder measure. 

The diagrams on pages 17, 19, 21, 29, 31, ^^, 47, 51 and 71 are all laid out 
for a normal strap, and the closing shoulder line is drawn from point M to C, 
thus locating shoulder point M below top line of draft as shown on diagram on 
page 17. 

On pages 15, 25, 57 and 81, the front shoulder point comes up to top line 
of draft as explained in diagram of proportions on page 15, where the shoulder 
line is drawn from T to Z, thus making the front length of strap fully yi inch 
longer than in the other method. It is found that the majority of ladies are on 
tlie average }4 inch erect and for the average form it is well to use the method 
as laid out in the illustration on [)ages 14 and 15 when cutting by proportions, 
but when shoulder measure and strap measure is used for variations then I use 
the system as laid out in illustrations on pages 17 and 21, and make changes 
according to measures as explained in variations on pages 88 to 91. 

The short measure method is fully explained on pages 18-19 ^^^ 60-61. 

The table of proportions is not of the ideal form, but of the average. The 
circumference measurements are taken from the breast, and the length from the 
height, as follows: If the breast is 34, all circumference measurements are found 
opposite that breast measure, and if the height is 5 feet 6 inches all the lengths 
are found opposite that height scale. 



PROPORTIONATE SCALE OF AVERAGE MEASUREMENTS. 



HEIGHT 


CIRCnHFERBNCE 


Nataral 
Waist Length 


Inside length 

of Arm to 

Elbow 


Full Sleeve 
Length 


Side Length 


Depth of Scje 




Feet - Inches 


Breast 


Bust 


Waist 


Neok 


Scye 


Blade 


4- 


24 


24 


20 


I I 


I I 


12 


6/ 


12/ 


6/ 


5/ 


7/3 


4- 2 


25 


25 


20X 


Il5< 


11/ 


12/ 


6/ 


■3 


6-/ 


5^ 


8 


4- 4 


26 


26 


20/ 


11/ 


12 


13 


6/ 


13/ 


7 


6 


8/ 


4- 6 


27 


27 


20-K 


Il3X 


12/ 


13/ 


7 


14 


7/ 


6/ 


8^3 


4- 8 


28 


28;< 


21 


12/ 


13 


14 


7/ 


■4/ 


7 / 


6/ 


9 


4-IO 


29 


29>^ 


21;^ 


1254 


•3/ 


14/ 


7/ 


■5 


73/ 


6-/ 


9/3 


5- ° 


30 


30M 


2 1 >/, 


13/^ 


14 


•5 


7M 


15/ 


8 


7 


97-3 


5- I 


31 


32 


22 


'3/ 


14/ 


15^ 


7/8 


'SK 


8,'e 


7 A 


10 


5 2 


32 


33;^ 


22/. 


13/8 


15 


15/ 


8 


16 


8>8 


7/8 


10/ 


5- 3 


2,i 


34H 


23^ 


14^ 


15/ 


■53^ 


8>s 


16X 


&h 


7.". 


10^3 


5- 4 


34 


35^ 


24 


I4->8 


16 


16 


8/ 


16/ 


?.% 


73/ 


1 1 


5- 4>^ 


35 


37 


243/^ 


15 


16/ 


i6j/^ 


8.»„ 


i6->s 


8/ 


7/8 


1 1 1/3 


5- 5 


36 


38 


25/ 


I 5-/8 


•7 


.6/ 


8->8 


16/ 


8,'„ 




1 1/3 


5- S% 


37 


39 


26X 


153^ 


17/ 


l6->'8 


8,'„ 


16J-8 


8,'. 


i"'(j 


I 2 


.5- 6 


38 


40 


27 


1634 


18 


16/ 


8/ 


17 


OlR 


S.'b 


• 2/3 


5- 6K 


39 


41 


27M 


16/ 


18/ 


165.8 


8i»c 


•7>^ 


8i'« 


O] « 


I2?'3 


5- 7 


40 


42 


28>^ 


16/8 


19 


16/ 


8->S 


17/ 


8 


8% 


13 


S- 7X 


41 


42;'4 


29X 


nVi 


19X 


i61ii 


81i 


I 7 ->8 


7}i 


8% 


'3^ 


5- VA 


42 


43 >^ 


30 


1 75' 8 


19/ 


i6^S 


8^ 


17/ 


7?8 


9 


13/ 


5- 73^ 


43 


44/. 


3°^ 


18 


193/ 


16I!: 


8ii 


17^8 


7til 


9/8 


14 


5- 8 


44 


45 >^ 


3'X 


18/8 


20 


17 


8^ 


•7/ 


7/ 


9^ 


14/ 



(I) 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OV CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



PROPORTIONS. 



nv Chas. J. Stone. 



THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT. 

The theory advanced by our most noted sculptors, 
painters, artists and professors of anthrojjology, 
regarding the height of the human body and its 
proper division, is that the entire height, from the 
crown of the head to the end of the big toe contains 
eight faces or heads, and on this theory they divide 
the human form into eight faces or heads. The 
distance from the bottom of the heel to the end of 
the toe is estimated to be 2*2 of the entire height. 
They also claim that the proper way to measure for 
height is to have the subject in a lying-down position 
with feet stretched out, or if in a standing position it 
must be on tip-toe. This theory is undoubtedly 
correct if we want to find the correct length of the 
face, but to tailors and dressmakers this is of less 
importance. What we want is the division of the 
parts of the body that we are required to cover, and 
it matters not if the face of our client is one-sixteenth 
of an inch longer or shorter, and while the distance 
from the crown of the head to bottom of heel does 
not contain eight times the length of the face, yet I 
find in my practice that this distance can be cor- 
rectlj' divided into eight parts and each of these parts 
subdivided into eighths, giving us 64 parts or units 
for height. 

The division of the female form is nearly the same 
as that of the male, with the following exceptions: 
Her shoulders are narrower, her waist smaller and 
hips larger, and her arms and legs are shorter than 
the male. I consider the average height of the 
female to be 5 feet 4 inches or 64 inches, so if the 
height of 64 inches is divided into 64 parts or units 
each unit will be one inch. The accomj)anying 
diagram is that of a female figure, such as the ladies' 



tailor or dressmaker find them, " lacced tight in a 
corset."' The following method is used in dividing 
the height on the 64th unit theory, measure taken 
from top of head to bottom of heel: 

THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT. 

From top of head to top of neck, as from A to B 
is ys or g«i. 

Note. — It will be noticed that the face on diagram 
is a trifle longer than this division. 

From top of neck to top of shoulder, as from B to 
C is A'. 

From top of shoulder to bottom of scye, as from C 
to D, is 6%, which only holds good for the bone struc- 
ture. 

Note. — This distance must be regulated by the 
diameter of the scye, according to flesh develop- 
ments, as the distance from N to P is width not 
height. (See explanation of wid/hs.) 
B to E is waist length and is ]^ of height. 
E to F is }i of height. 

A to F is J^ of the entire length of the body. 
D to F is _^ of the height and regulates length of arm. 

In fleshy forms the length of sleeve will decrease, 
and in lean forms increase a trifle, according to in- 
crease or decrease of flesh under the arm at P. 
F to G is 2 units or parts. 
G to H is 4 units or parts. 
H to J is 2 units or parts. 
I to J, "the knee," is yi. 
J to K, "lower part of calf," is ^. 
K to L, "ankle," is 4 parts. 
L to M, "bottom of heel," is 4 parts. 
The length of leg will be 2 units or parts less than yi 
of entire height. 




Alpha Paramount Cut 'A" 105. 

Copyrighted 1897 by Chas. J. Stone. 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



d^ ^ ^ ^ dt 



PROPORTIONS. 



BY Chas. J. Stone. 



THE DIVISION OF WIDTH. 

The width is divided into sixteen equal parts. 
Note these divisions of widths are made from the net 
breast measure taken snug above the bust "mam- 
millae." Of these parts I give six for the front, six 
for the back and two for each side or arm, four for 
the waist and eight for the hip, the largest part being 
across the pelvis. 

The average breast measure of the female form is 
34 inches, and the bust over the mammilla 36 inches. 
The proportionate waist will be 10 inches less than 
breast, or two-thirds of the bust measure. 

The hips will measure 40^4 inches, which is one- 



fourth of breast, 4>4 inches, added to bust 
measure, 36. 

The entire width across the breast, as from C to 8, 
^ breast measure, is divided into eighths, and the 
width of back from C to 3 is 3^. C to 5 is Si. The 
width of back at top of neck is ys. 

The width of shoulders at top are reduced ^ the 
distance between lines 2 and 3 as per dotted line, so 
while the widtli of back from C to 3 is s/g of breast, 
the width of shoulders is reduced j'j at line B K. 

The entire width of body is divided into six- 
teenths of the breast, or eighths on division, and the 
extra bust whatever it may measure is added to the 
front as from 8 to 9. 



.^ ^ e^ ^ e^ e^ 




Alpha Paramount Cut "A" 106. 

Co)iyris;liled I8SI" liy C'luis. ,1. Stone 



14 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



PROPORTIONS IN PRACTICE. 



Fashionable Jacket, by Proportionate Method, 
from the following measurements: 



Height, 5 feet 4 inches. 
Breast, 34 inches. 



Bust, 36 inches. 
Waist, 24 inches. 



TO DRAFT. 

Square lines A B D and ATS. 

A to B is 3^ inches, being #j of height plus ^ inch. 

B to C is j.^ breast plus J^ inch. 

A to D is 16^ inches, being ^ of height plus ^ 
inch. 

Square lines B C and D. 

C to E is i^ breast, and to F is J^ full bust. 

Divide breast into eight equal parts and mark off as 
per black dots. 

C to H is i^, H to I is >^, I to J is >^, J to K is }i, 
K to L is )4- 

Square up lines J and L. 

Points J V and U L will then form the diameter of 
scye, but as the scye in a lady's garment is cut 
somewhat wider than in a gentleman's, I ad- 
vance from L to 10 one half inch and recede 
from J to 1 1 one half inch. The arm-scye will 
then be nearly a circle, as indicated by dotted 
line 27 2 I. 

Point G is half way between E and F. 

Square up from G to R. 

Divide distance between G and 10 into three equal 
parts and locate points O and P, and square up 
points O and P. 

Z is halfway between B and V. 



Draw a line from T through Z to 12. This line will 
locate top of front shoulder, also lower shoulder 
point of back at W. 

A to X is )^ breast. Draw a line from X through 
point W down to 21, add from X to 13, J^ inch, 
and shape as represented, the top of back com- 
ing i4 inch below point A. 

It will be seen that the distance from K to W is the 
same as K to 21, and the distance from 27 to Y 
is the same as 27 to 21. 

Square down from F to 15, and advance from 15 to 
16 one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to F 
and a line from S to F. 

5 to 19 is }4 breast, and 19 to 20 is J^ inch. 
F to 18 and 16 to 17 is 2 inches. 

Shape front as represented. 

D to 23 IS I inch, and D to 24 is 6 inches. 

D to 1 is I ^ inches. 

1 to 2 is ^ inch. 

2 to 3 is 2i^ inches. 

3 to 4 is 1 inch. 

4 to 5 is 2^ inches, thus making the back and side 

body and under-arm piece }( of waist measure. 
14 to 6 is I ^ inches. 

6 to 7 is 2 i^ (same as side and under-arm piecesV 

7 to 8 is I ^ inches. 

The dotted lines on back and side body indicate the 

pleats. 
Finish draft as represented and add seams all over 

when cutting the cloth. 



«o** -^.g. cross 



i6 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



THE DRESS BODICE. 



Strap, 


lO^ 


Side, 


Upper shoulder, 


23>^ 


Breast, 


Lower shoulder, 


22"^ 


Bust, 


Length back, 


161^ 


Waist, 




TO D 


RAFT. 



The diagram of bodice on opposite page is pro- 
duced from the following measures: 

34 

24 



Square lines AM and A C B D. 

A to B is 3^ upper shoulder measure and }^ inch. 

B to C is ^ breast and ^ inch. 

Square lines B C. 

A to 14 is ^ inch. 

A to O is jj/^ breast. 

B to J is ^ breast. 

Square up lines J and K. 

B to E is J^ breast and B to F is }4 bust. 

G is half way between F and E. 

G to H is )^ bust. 

Draw a line up from H to M. 

Draw a line from M to C. 

M to N is >^ breast. 

N to 13 is ^ breast. 

X is half way between P and Q. 

Draw a line from O to X. 

X to 10 is I ^ inches. 



14 to D is length of waist. 

Hollow back to D ^ inch. 

B to L is yi breast on division, square down to W. 

L to W is underarm length. 

12 is halfway between 11 and L. 

Width of back at D 1, is i inch, i to 4 is 3^ inch. 

Apply waist measure from D to W and suppress be- 
tween 2 and 5 and 3 and W, so as to make the 
two side bodies and the back ^ of the waist 
measure. 

Square down in front from F to R. 

R to S is I inch always. 

Apply waist measure from W forward and find how 
much suppression is needed; in this case we find 
it is 4j^ inches to be suppressed. The differ- 
ence of one inch between breast and bust meas- 
ure should be taken out in the second dart, 
therefore deduct the one inch from 4%, leaving 
3^; this amount divided, the remainder 3^ 
inches by 3, which will give us 1% inches to be 
suppressed between W and 6; ^ inch between 
8 and g and i^ together witli the i inch differ- 
ence between breast and bust to be taken out of 
the second dart between 7 and 8. 

K to T is I yi inches, draw a line for top of dart from 
L through T. 



*s*SSSSiJ^^S^S&BSw^^Si$i$*«eet 




f2) 



i8 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



DRESS BODICE. 



HY ACTUAL MEASURES. 



The diagram on opposite page is produced by the 
following measures: 



Strap, 12 


Waist length, 1 7 


Breast, 


40 


Blade, 13 


Side length, 8 


Bust, 


42 


Depth scye, 9 


Front length, 21 


Waist, 


26 



Square lines A D and A L. 

A to B is strap measure, 12 inches less width of back 
at top of neck, 2^^ inches or ys breast, making 
the distance from A to B, g}.4 inches. 

B to Q is depth of scye 9 inches. 

C is }i the distance from Q to B, or 3 inches be- 
low Q. 

Q to D is length of waist 17 inches. 

Square lines B C and D. 

A to N is Js breast. 

B to E is half breast, 20 inches. 

B to F is half bust, 21 inches. 

K is }4> back from F. 

Square up line K. 

Square down line F. 

R to S is I inch. 

Shape front center from L through F and S. 

B to J is blade measure, 13 inches. 

J to H is 1/5 breast. 

Square up J and H. 

G is half way between B and E. 

Square down from G to U and apply side length, 8 
inches. 

Draw line from L to C. 

L to M is ya breast. 



M to T is }{ breast. 

M to P is the same as N to O. 

Point X is I '4^ inch below point J. 

Draw line from H through X for top of darts at Y 

and Z. 
T> to 1 is y( inch. 

1 to 2 is I J4 inches. 

2 to 3 is }-i inch. 

3 to 4 is 2}^ inches. 

4 to 5 is I inch. 

5 to 6 is 2)4^ inches. 

6 to 7 is I inch. 

U to 7 is 1 1^ inches. 

U to 8 is I inch. 

W is half way between U and S. 

V is 2}i inches back from front edge. 

Draw dotted line from V to Z. 

8 is half way between D and S, or D to 8 is 1 1 
inches, with a suppression of ^ of the distance, 
making the waist from i to 8, 8^ inches. 

8 to S is It inches, or 6}( inches more than is 
needed to make up the size of waist. 

Deduct the difference of i inch between half of 
breast and half of bust leaving 514^ inches to be 
suppressed. 

Divide 5J/4 by 3, and take out the ' .; or i^ inches 
between 8 and 9 and 12 and 13 and 10 and 11 
plus the I inch difference between breast and 
bust to be taken out between to and 1 1. 

Shape as shown in diagram adding i/^ inch for button 
stand in front. 



•«S3$!$;SS 




«■:$$■«&&«■ 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



BASQUE. 



)1V SHOUI.DKR MEASURES. 



From the following measurements: 



Upper shoulder, 


24/^ 


Length of waist, 


16 


Lower shoulder, 


24 


Full length. 


21 


Under-arm' length, 


8 


Breast, 


35 


Neck, 


14 


Bust, 


37 


Top of darts, 


13 


Waist, 


25 



Front length, 19^. 

Commence by squaring out and down from i. 

1 to 9 is J4 inch. 

9 to 2 is 5^ of upper shoulder. 

9 to 3 is length of waist, 16 inches. 
Square lines 2 and 3. 

2 to 5 is half of breast. 
2 to 6 is half of bust. 

7 is half way between 6 and 5. 

7 to 8 is }i bust. 

Square up from 8 to 11. 

2 to 14 is half inch less than ^ of lower shoulder 

measure. 
15 is half way between 2 and 14. 
15 to 16 is half incli. 
Square up lines 14 and 16. 

10 is half way between 9 and 2. 
Draw a line from 10 to 11. 

1 1 to I 2 is ^i breast. 

12 to 20 is 34^ breast. 
I to 13 is ^i bust. 

Draw a line from 13 to 17. 

13 to 19 is half inch. 

12 to 18 is the same as 19 to 17. 



2 to 31 is half of breast on division. 
Square down from 31 to 32. 
Square down from 6 to 29. 

29 to 30 is I inch. 

Apply measure from i to 19, place this amount at 
12 and measure neck gorge to 20, hold measure at 
12 and 'measure down to 8 for top of darts and con- 
tinue measure down to 30 for front length, and if the 
proportionate neck gorge does not correspond with 
the measure, raise or lower it at point 20, and if 
front length does not correspond with waist line raise 
or lower it at point 30, according to measure. 

Apply under-arm length from 31 to 32 and if 
measure does not correspond with the proportionate 
waist line raise or lower it at point 32. 

3 to A is one-quarter inch. 
A to 2 I is il^ inches. 

21 to 22 is half inch. 

Measure from A to 21, place this at 22 and measure 
out }( of waist and suppress equally between 23 
and 24, 25 and 32, so that the back and the two 
sides will measure 34^ of waist. 

Measure distance from 32 to 30 and whatever it 
measures more than }{ of waist must be taken 
out or suppressed in tl.e following manner: Take 
full amount to be sup|)ressed, deduct from this 
amount 1 inch, divide the remainder into three 
equal parts and take out }} between 32 and 26, 
3/3 between 28 and 29, and 'j plus the i inch 
between 27 and 28. 

Shape as represented. 




€-S;$i$i€fS»- 



22 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



DOUBLE BREASTED FROCK. 



The body of a double breasted frock is drafted the 
same as an ordinary waist with the exception that the 
waist seams comes from i ■ j to 2 inches below the 
waist line in the back as from A to D, and the same 
in front as from B to N; in the side it is only about 
one inch below regular waist line as from C to H. 

The lapel is cut as per dotted outline and is about 
i^ inches wide at waist line and 2^ inches at cen- 
ter of bust. The skirt is cut on the same principle 
as the regular dress skirt in the following manner: 
Draw a straight line from O to T. 
O to P is I'j waist and T to S is the same. 
P to S is I J waist. 
P to Q is yi waist. 

Form square P Q R S, which is '3 waist measure. 
Q to X is the same as O to P. 
Draw a line from P through X to VV. 
Sweep from X to S T, using point P as pivot. 
X to I is width of back, E to D; make a mark at i, 
and place sidebotly so that waist line will lay on 



sweep line X S, and mark off bottom of sidebody 
as at 2-3, then place under arm piece in same 
manner and mark off at 3-4. 

Then place forepart so that point B will lay on point 
T and mark off as at 5-6, 7 and 4, so whatever 
the body comes below waist line we cut off of 
skirt below sweep line X S T. 

U V is 5 inches below X S. 

W to 15 is one inch. 

Shape spring of back skirt from 2 through U to 15. 

The full length of coat is from 37 to 39 inches. 

Make length of skirt from 2 to 15, the same as back 
skirt from D to Z. 

T to Y is the same as X to W. 

Sweep from W to Y by P for length. 

For a close fitting skirt split it open over the hips as 
at 10 and 11, fold skirt over at botton as indi- 
cated by dotted lines 10, 11, 12 and 13. 

5 to 8 is I J^ inches and Y to 9 is 2}4 inches. 



•w*SSSSiJ^^^S3^^(of 



}SS*es««<- 




l9_ I 



24 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



FANCY WAIST. 



BY PROPORTIONS. 



The waist on opposite page is produced from the 
following measurements: 



Length of waist, i6 



Breast, 
Bust, 



33 

35 



Waist, 



23 



TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring lines ABC and AON. 

A to B is ^ inch. 

B to C is X breast and 3^/^ inches. 

B to D is full length of waist. ' 

Square lines C and D. 

C to E is ^ breast. 

C to F is ^ bust. 

Square down from F to Q. 

Q to R is I inch. 

F to G is yi bust. 

Square up from G to M. 

Shape front line from M through P and F to R. 

M to N is i^ breast. 

M to P is 2 inches. 

S is half way between B and C. 

Draw a line from S to N. 

C to H is yi inch less than -3 of breast. 

I is half way between C and H. 

I to J is yi inch. 



Square up from J to F. 
Square up from H to O. 
A to V is '6 breast. 
D to I is I ^ inches. 

1 to 2 is ^ inch. 

2 to 3 is 2}^ inches. 

3 to 4 is I inch. 

4 to 5 is 214^ inches. 
T to X is i}( inches. 

i^ of an inch is taken out between back and side 

body and X. 
K is half way between J and H. 
W is half way between K and X. 
R to 6 is 2 inches. 

6 to 7 is I J^ inches. 

7 to 8 is 1 inch. 

8 to 9 is 2 inches. 

9 to 10 is 2 3/4 inches. 
Shape as represented. 

The cloth is represented by shaded portion, the back 
side body and under arm piece is in one and 
shaped so as to fit the lining. The shaded por- 
tion on front represents the cloth. The front 
of waist is finished with fancy silk. Waist at neck 
is finished with an ordinary standing collar. 





(3) 



26 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



JACKET AND VEST. 



On opposite page is the diagram of a jacket and 
vest. The diagram is produced by proportions from 
the following measurements: 



Length of waist, isH 
Full length, 21 

Breast, 34^2 



Bust, 
Waist, 



36 



TO DRAFT. 



Commence by squaring lines i, 3, 5, and i, 17, 

1 to 2 is '/2 inch. 

2 to 3 is 3 inches. 

3 to 4 is )^ of breast and ij inch. 

2 to 5 is waist length, i^^, and to 6 full length, 21. 
Square lines 4 and 5. 

4 to 10 is }4 inch less than 2^3 breast. 

1 1 is halfway between 4 and 10. 
9 is halfway between 10 and 11. 
4 to 7 is half of breast. 

4 to 8 is half of bust. 
Square up and down from 8. 
Square up from 10 and 11. 
27 to 28 is I inch. 
Draw a line from 8 to 28. 

12 to 13 is ^ bust. 



Draw a line from 13 to 3. 

13 to 14 is ys breast. 

Shape front from 13 tiirough 8 and 28. 

14 to 34 is '4 breast. 

I to 17 is ^ breast, plus '2 inch. 
16 to 29 is I }/2 inches. 

15 to 30 is the same. 
5 to 18 is J4 inch. 

18 to 19 is I }^ inches. 

19 to 20 is J4 inch. 

20 to 21 is 2yi inches. 

21 to 22 is T inch. 

22 to 23 is 2}i inches. 

23 to 24 is 2^ inches. 

24 to 25 is 3 inches. 

25 to 26 is 2^ inches. 

26 to 28 is 3 '4^ inches. 

In shaping the front dart add 'j inch at 31 over 
tlie largest part of bust and hollow the shoulder a 
trifle between 30 and 38. 

The collar for the jacket is indicated by dotted 
lines which any cutter will readily understand. 

The darts on the vest are indicated by dotted 
lines. 




12 13 ^ 




28 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



^ e^ e^ e^ ^ 



DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST. 



On opposite page we give a normal draft of a 
double-breasted ladies' vest. The measures are: 



Breast, 
Bust, 



37 
39 



Waist, 26 

Length of waist, 16 



Note. — This pattern is drafted without seams ; in 
cutting the goods add for seams and sew in chalk line. 

TO DRAFT. 

Scjuare lines A D and A L. 

A to B is 3)4 inches. 

B to C is yi breast. 

D is length of waist. 

Square lines B C and D. 

C to F is )4 of breast on division. 

F to G is 14 bust on divisions. 

F to H is yi bust on divisions. 



C to E is ■::; of bust measure. 

E to K is '6 bust on divisions. 

Square up lines H G and K. 

Square down lines F and E. 

T to 6 is I inch. 

Shape front from L through E and 6. 

L to M is '8 breast on divisions. 

A to N is ^ breast plus y^ inch on divisions. 

P to 10 is yi inch. 

R to 7 is I inch. 

8 to 9 is I '4 inches, making the width of back part 

at waist yl of the entire waist measure. 
R to I is I )^ inches. 
The darts are each i^ inches making the forepart 

at waist y^ of the entire waist measure. 



?i3» t^ ^^ i^ t^ t^ 



30 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



CUTAWAY FROCK. 



Length of Waist, 


i6 


Breast,35 


Length of Coat, 


34 


Bust, 63 


Side, 


7,'i 


Waist, 25 
Hip, 40 



The single breasted froclv on opposite page is pro- 
duced by the following measures; 

Strap, II 

Upper Shoulder, 24 
Lower Shoulder, 23 

ilRAFT. 

Square lines ACT and A L. 

A to B is ^ upper shoulder and }i inch. 

A to D is 3)4 inches. 

A to 9 is )^ inch. 

9 to C is waist length and to T is full length. 

Square lines D, B and C. 

B to E is half of breast measure. 

B to F is half of bust measure. 

F to K is }i of bust. 

Square up from K and down from F to M. 

M to N is one inch. 

Draw front center line from L through F to N. 

B to H is half of lower shoulder less half inch. 

H to J is yi breast. 

J to G is J^ breast. 

Square up lines J and H. 



A to P is }i breast plus )j inch. 
L to O is )s breast. 
C to I is i^ inches. 

1 to 2 is yi inch. 

2 to 3 is 2 i,'^ inches. 

3 to 4 is I inch. 

4 to 5 is 2I/2 inches. 

5 to 6 is 1)4 inches. 
7 to 8 is I ^ inches. 

R is I 3/4 inches below waist line. 

THK CHAT SKIRT. 

Sweep from C to U by D for top of skirt. 

C to V is whatever the waist measure is from C to R. 

X is i)( inches above C. 

Sweep from V to U by X. 

Shape skirt from V to T. 

Add 3 inches from T to Y and X to W for a box pleat. 

THE VEST. 

The double breasted vest is drafted the same as the 
coat and needs no other explanation; it is the same as 
on page 29, the only difference in this vest is that there 
are no lapels cut off, the front being cut in one piece. 



■*9Si5S?€€$i 




i^;$i$$@«;s» 



^w 




SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



DOUBLE-BREASTED CUTAWAY JACKET. 



t6>-X ■ 


Breast, 


37 


24 


Bust, 


39 


34 1 


Waist, 


27 


7)^ 


Hip, 


45 



The diagram of double-breasted cutaway jacket on 
opposite page is a close-fitting garment all through 
the body and front skirt, with ample allowance for 
drapery in the back skirt. The width of lapel at 
waist seam is 3 inches, and at the notch the lapel is 
5 and the collar 4 inches wide. The following meas- 
ures are used in drafting: 
Length of waist, 
To prominent part of hip. 
Full length. 
Length of waist under arm, 

Height 5 feet six inches. 

Note. — This pattern is drafted without seams. In 
cutting the cloth add for seams and sew in chalk line. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square lines A P and A F. 

A to B is 3)4 inches. 

B to C is 54^ breast plus ]A inch. 

D is waist, E hip, and F full length. 

Square lines BCD and E. 

C to G is half of breast measure 18^2 inches. 

C to L is half of bust measure 19 '2 inches. 

I> to K is ^ breast. 

Square up from K to P and down to M. 

M to N is one inch more than K to L. 



G to H is half of breast (on division). 

H to I is yi of breast. 

H to J is ^4, of breast. 

Draw line from P to B. 

A to R is ^ breast, plus y'2 inch. 

P to Q is >^ breast. 

D to I is half inch and i to 2 is 2 inches. 

2 to 3 is one inch and 3 to 4 is 2 inches. 

4 to 5 is one inch and 5 to 6 is 2 inches. 

6 to 7 is I ^ inches. 

Apply waist measure and take out between 8 and 9, 

10 and 1 1 whatever waist is too large for measure. 

"No allowance for seams." 
E to U is I li inches. 
Draw line for spring of back from i through U. For 

first side body from J through 3, and for second 

side body from H through 5. 
U to V is 5 inches. 
E to W is 6 inches. 
V to X is 6}i inches. 

X to Y is half inch and y^ inch taken out at Z. 
Cut forepart through from the lower end of the dart 

at 15 to point of lapel at O. 
When jacket is buttoned, the front edge of lapel 
should come up to the first dart. 



e^ ^ e^ e^ .^ 




(4) 



34 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



BASQUE AND VEST. 



The draft is produced by the following shoidder 
measures: 



Upper shoulder, 22 J^ 
Lower shoulder, 2i]4 
Side length, 8J^ 

Vest opening, lo. 



Front length, 19^ 
Natural waist, 16^ 
Full length, 36 

Full length, 21}^. 

TO DRAFT. 



Breast, 32 
Bust, 34 
Waist, 22 
Hip, 39 



Square lines A. F and A O. 

A to B is )4 upper shoulder. 

B to C is J^ breast. 

B to D is y'z inch. 

A to E is "/ inch. 

E to F is waist and to (; full length. 

Square lines C, D and F. 

D to H is y^ breast. 

D to J is 1^ bust. 

J to K is '6 bust. 

Square up from K to O. 

Square down from J to W. 

W to X is I inch. 

Draw line from O to J and from J through X for 
front center line. 

D to M is ^2 lower shoulder, less y'^ inch. 

N is half way between D and M. 

L is half way between D and H. 

A to Q is y% breast plus '/ inch. 

U to R is ]/2 inch. 

Draw line from C to O. 

<) to P is J^ breast. 

S to T is the same as U to R. 

P to V is J-4 breast. 

From waist line to lower end of roll is 4 inches; re- 
duce the front of coat 1 inch from lower end of 
the lapel all the way down. 

F to I is -;8 inch. 

1 to 2 is I inch. 

2 to 3 is }4 inch. 

3 to 4 is 2 inches. 

4 to 6 is I '- inches. 



6 to 7 is 2].-, inches, making the back and two sitie 

bodies 5 ^ inches or ^ of entire waist measure. 
From 7 to X is 10^ inches or 5 inches more than ^4 

waist measure. 
Suppress 2^ inches from 7 to 8, and 2 j/4' inches from 

9 to 10, draw a line from g to m center of dart 

and take out %i inch on each side of m. 
Shape front as represented, making the lapel 3 inches 

wide at the lower end and 2]/^ inches at the 

notch, and the collar 2 inches, 
g to w is 3 inches; make entire width of back part 

at bottom 5 inches. 
From W on back to spring of first sidebody is i]/: 

inches. 
Apply hip measure 5j^ inches below waist line and 

shape as represented. 

VEST. 

The vest is cut same as the basque, the dotted lines 
representing the vest. 

I to a is 2 '4 inches. 

a to c is I inch. 

c to d is 33^ inches, making the distance from i to 

a and c to d '4 of waist measure. 
X to h is I J{; inches, 
h to e is I inch, 
e to s is lyi inches, 
s to y is 1 •^ inches, 
y to k is 2 14' inches, making the distance from X to 

h, e to s and y to k V^ waist measure. 
Shape front of vest y^ inch outside of center line and 

finish as represented. 

The basque is cut with a large lapel turned back 
so as to give it an even roll all the way down in front. 
The lapels are stiffened with hair cloth and there are 
three large buttons on each lapel. There is a hook 
on forepart on the inside under the lower button, 
and an eyelet in the vest holding the fronts of the 
basque together. The vest is cut with a regular col- 
lar same as on a gentleman's vest. 



36 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



THE PRINCIPLE OF SLEEVE CUTTING. 




Sleeves are all cut from a regular close fitting 
sleeve pattern (see diagram of the regular sleeve draft, 
with illustration of how to produce the puff at top.) 
The regular sleeve is produced from the measure of 
the armscye, which is as follows : 



Length of sleeve tii tibiiw, 8 
Full length of sleeve, i6 
Scye, 1 6 



Width at elbow, 
Width at hand. 



9% 



TO DRAFT. 

Commence by squaring out and down. 

From I to 2 is I'j scye. 

From I to 3 is ^ scye and }( inch. 

3 to lo is elbow, and to ii full length of sleeve. 

Square across from points 2, 3 and 10. 

10 to 13 is I }i inches. 

1 1 to 12 is I ^ inches. 

3 to 4 on diagonal line is Ui scye, and yi inch. 
5 is half way between 3 and 4. 
Square up and down from 5. 

Draw a line from 3 to 6, and shape top sleeve as 
shown in diagram. 



Make width of sleeve from 13 to 14, }4 inch less than 
measure, and add from 14 to elbow i inch for 
the upper sleeve. The top sleeve from 12 to 17 
is ^ inch more than half of the width at hand, 
and the upper sleeve is ^ inch smaller. 

3 to 15 and 12 to 16 is 14^ inch added to the upper sleeve 
and like amount is taken off the under sleeve. 

THE NEW WRINKLE AND HOW TO PRODUCE IT. 

From 14 to double circle below 18 is 3}^ inches. 

Split under sleeve from 19 to 18, and swing out top 
part of sleeve whatever amount of fullness is 
wanted and draw a line from 3 to 21. 

23 is half way between 3 and 21. 

Draw a line from 19 to 20. 

Square up from 23 to 24, and sweep from 21 to 22 
as shown in diagram. 

Tlie fullness on top sleeve is to be shirred in. 

Add seams when cutting the cloth. 



THE CLOSE FITTING SLEEVE. 

Square lines A D and A H. 

A to B is i's breast, and to 2 is 3^ breast. 

2 to C is 5'8 inch. 

Square lines A B and C. 

2 to 3 is whatever upper part of armscye measures. 

2 to 4 is whatever lower part of armscye measures. 

Draw line from 2 to 3. 




SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



37 



5 is half way between 2 and 3. 
Square up and down from 5. 
C to D is length of sleeve, i6}4 inches. 
E is half way between C and 12. 
E to I is 15^ inches. 
D to 12 is \y2 inches. 
12 to 15 and 2 to 14 is i inch. 
Square down from 3 to F. 

Make width at hand and elbow according to measure, 
and shape as shown in diagram. 

THE LEG O' MUTTON SLEEVE. 

In the leg o' mutton sleeve the under part remains 
the same as in a close-fitting sleeve; and the upper 
part is very easily changed from the close-fitting to 
the very large by making the following sweeps: 
Sweep from 2 to 8 and 9 by 1. 
Sweep from 3 to 10 by F. 
From 2 to 8 is 2j/^ inches, or whatever fullness is 

desired in the upper sleeve. 
Sweep from 8 to i ( by 7, and from 11 to 10 by 6. 
8 to 9 is \]^ inches. 
Draw line from 10 to hand. 

ONE SEAM LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE. 

Fold paper lengthways and square lines .ABC and 
to G. 

Square across at A. 

A to B is ji{ sleeve length. 

A to C is ^ of sleeve length. 

C to D is 4 inches or whatever width is desired. 

B to E is 5 inches. 

.\pply length of sleeve from D through E out to F. 
Make a point at F. 

A to G is tS inches. 

Draw a line from F to G. 

H is half way between F and G. 

Square across at H. 

H to K is ^ sleeve length. 

Sweep from F to G using K as pivot. 

G to M is }4 inch or enough to make an even round- 
ing of sleeve head. 



is 3/| of an inch up and 



Point L 

point F. 
I to J is I inch. 
Shape under part of sleeve as represented 



inch back of 




38 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 




Si^SSs*- 



ONE SEAM SLEEVE. 



A great number of cutters are cracking their brains 
about drafting the various styles and kinds of ladies' 
sleeves, never for a moment thinking that it can be 
done otherwise. We will say right here that the only 
ladies' sleeve that can be produced by drafting is a 
close fitting sleeve, and from this all other sleeves 
are cut, and the accompanying sleeve is produced in 
the following manner: 

Draw a straight line i, 2, 3 and iS. Take an 
ordinary close fitting sleeve and cut it across the 
elbow at points 10 and 11, pivot at these points 
and overlap at 15 and 16 until a straight outside 
seam is obtained, then cut sleeve across at 6; 
swing sleeve around until it gets on a right angle 
as illustrated in the diagram. Measure distance 
from 5 to 7, which in this case is 914 inches; 



go up same amount from 6 to 8; line 17, 8, is 

parallel with line i, 2, 3. 
Sweep from 7 through 19 to 12 to 13, using 8 as 

pivot; then go back from 8 to 9, i)4 inches and 

sweep from 14 through 20 to 12. Add from 13 

to 18 enough so as to make an even round on 

the top of sleeve. 
Line 19 is the upper sleeve. 
Line 20 is the under sleeve. 
When sleeve is finished, points 3 and 4 will come down 

to point 2, giving the extra overlap as shown in 

accompanying illustration of thesleeve finished. 
The Y>\n checked portion of the diagram represents 

the close fitting sleeve The black and shaded 

portion represents the fold-over. 
Note. — Add seams in cutting tlie cloth. 






40 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 



THE FOUNDATION SKIRT. 



In cutting skirts it is not necessary to make a draft 
for every size and style, for it is much simpler and 
easier to use a foundation skirt, and from that make 
the needed changes. The accompanying diagram 
will be found a most simple and correct method in 
skirt cutting. 

TO DRAFT. 

Waist 24 ; Hip 42 ; Length 40. 
First form a square as .\ P anti A N. 
A to C is i's waist. 
C to D and C to F is ^3 waist. 
Make a sweep from D to I and to 13, using point C 

as pivot. 
13 to P is 5 inches. Make a sweep as per dotted 

line. 
F to L is the same as D to 13. 
Draw a line from C through L M to R. 
13 to I, will then measure ^ waist and P to M }^ of 

hip measure. 
.\pply length of skirt from 13 to H and make a sweep 



from H through Q G, R to J, using point C as 

pivot. 
If the side of skirt is, say i inch longer than front, 

lower sweep from point C to double circled 

point below C i inch. 
Measure width of skirt at bottom as from H to J, in 

this draft 2^^ yards, and draw a line from J to 

C. The distance from L to I will then be for 

fulness in the back and is gathered or pleated in. 
H to Q is 12 inches. 
Q to G is 27 inches. 

G to R is 27 inches and R to J is 27 inclies. 
Draw lines from C to Q, G and R. 
2 to I is 1 inch. Shape front gore from i to K. If 

a closer fitting skirt is wanted, reduce gores as 

from 5 to 6 and 7 to 8. 
The width of the gores must be regulated by the 
width of the materials used, and there it no certain 
number of gores required. They may be 5, 6 or 7 
for the present style of skirt. 



^ e^ e^ e^ e^ 




Q 5 



FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLE OF SKIRT CUTTING. 



(5) 



ANOTHER FOUNDATION SKIRT. 




Front length, 41 I Side length 
Back length, 41 | Waist, 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line A B C. 

Square out from A. 

A to B is 4 inches. 

A to C is front length 41. 

Square out B and C. 

B to G is half of hip measure. 

Divide B to G into four parts as follows: 

B to D is ^ hip. 

D to E is }(. 

E to F is ^ and F to G )^ on division. 

C to H is half of hip and H to J the same. 

C to K is I inch. 

Fold paper on dotted line so that front ABC lays 
on line J K L; point .\ will in this manner locate 
point L, and C will locate point J. In this case the 
front, side and back lengths are all the same, so by 
simply folding the paper and cutting it off even at 
top and bottom, the correct length is gained; but in 
case the side and back length be longer or shorter 
than the front the difference must be added or taken 
off at the top, at waist and not at the bottom of the 
skirt. 

Apply waist measure from A to L and find out how 
much is to be taken out of the darts and take out yj: 
the amount between 5 and 6 and 73 the amount over 
the hips between 7 and 8. 



N is I inch back of D. 

C to O is ' ,; the distance from C to J. 

Cut through from O to N. 

L to 9 is I J^ inches, shape side gore from 9 to K. 

THE li.^CK GORES. 

In this skirt there are three back gores, each one 
28 inches wide at the bottom and 5 inches wide at 
the top. 

By reducing side gores i J-^ inches at from L to 9, 
there will be three inches of space or i inch for each 
back gore, which is cut five times as wide at the top 
and gathered in making up. 

How to cut the back gores; Take a piece of paper 
5 inches wide at the top and 28 at the bottom, fold 
lengthwise four times and cut across top and bottom 
and the correct angle is gained. 

Note. — The number of gores shall be regulated 
according to the width of the goods as follows: First, 
cut the skirt pattern independent of any seams then 
measure width of goods and divide the gores accord- 
ingly. Add seam when cutting the cloth. 



SKIRT. 




The measures are: 
Waist, 
Hip, 
Side length to hip, 



25 
40 

6 



Full side length, 40^ 
Length in front, 40 
Length in back, 40 '/J 



TO DRAFr. 



Draw line from A to C. 

A to B is 5 inches, or i inch less than measure taken. 

Square out lines B and C. 

B to G is half of hip measure. 

D E F is ^8 of hip measure or J/( on division. 

C to V is ^ of entire hip measure. 

From E to H and V to M is one inch. 

Draw line from M through H to J. 



T^et short arm of square rest at A and long arm at H, 

and square across to get point J. 
A to R is }( waist. 
S to T is one inch. 

Apply side length measure from R to H and M. 
Square across from M to W. 
M to W is the same as C to M. 
Draw line from W through N F to K. 
Place short arm of square at J and long arm at F 

and square back from J for point K. 
K to N is back length measures. 
Square out from N. 
N to O is 14 hip measure. 
K to P is 3^ the distance from N to O. 



44 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



FOUR GORED DRESS SKIRT. 



The diagram on opposite page of a dress 
skirt is cut with four gores and is five yards at the 
bottom. The following measures are used in drafting: 



Waist, 

Hip, 

Front length, 



25 

40 
40 



Side length, 40^^ 

Back length, 40^^ 

Width at bottom, 5 yards 



TO DRAFT. 



Draw lines ABC and st|uare across at C. 

C to A is 40 inches, front length. 

A to B is 5 inches, being js of entire length. 

A to H is J4^ waist. 

Sweep up from H to I. 

B to F is 10 inches or 1^' of hip measure. 

Sweep up from F to G. 

C to D is '8 width at bottom, 22'/ inches. 

Sweep from D to E by C. 

Fold pattern over so that line ABC will lay on 
points E and G and where line C strikes on 
sweep E will be side length at bottom and 
wherever point A lays on L will be the side 
length at top. 

Apply measure from A to J and whatever it is more 
than '4' of the waist take out Y^ extra amount 
between L and K and the remainder in the 
front darts. 

. THE SIDE GORE. 

Draw a straight line from E through L to S, 
measure out width at bottom, 45 inches from E to Q 
and make a sweep. Make width from L to M yl 



waist measure then fold paper over so that point L 
and E will fall on points M and (T, thus wherever 
point E will fall on the sweep at point Q will be the 
length at bottom and wherever point L will fold on 
point M will be the top. 



THE BACK GORE. 



Draw a straight line from O to P. 
P to Q is 2 2)-^ inches. 

O to M is 5 inches. Fold paper over so that point 
P will fall on point Q and point O will fall on 
point N. 

The side and back length of skirt being jj inch 
more than front length, raise the skirt at waist line 
this amount as per dotted line from I K L M N O ; 
it will be noted that if the front line C B A and side 
line E G is extended up to point R we could then 
sweep from A to L by R for waist line, and from C 
to E by R for run of bottom of skirt. The same 
in side piece. If line E J and line Q M would 
extend up to S we could then sweep from L to M for 
top of waist, and from E to Q for bottom of skirt, 
using S as pivot. The same method may be used 
for back gore. 

As the front and back gores are cut on the fold the 
goods on both the side and back gore will run on the 
bias from M to Q, therefore it is well to shorten the 
skirt a trifle at point Q as it will stretch down in 
making. The opening of the skirt is made on the 
left side at M N and fastens inside with a French fly 
as indicated by dotted lines. 



«^ ^ e^ ft^ e^ 



46 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



*»*5iJS*Sf 



5$«s*Si$ee«* 



DOUBLE BREASTED LONG JACKET. 



By Proportions. Height, 5 Feet 4 Inches. 



From the following measurements; 

Length of waist, 16 Breast, 34 

Full length, 32 Bust, 35 

Square lines A B D and A R Q. 

A to B is '/^ breast and 4 inches always. 

B to C is half the distance from A to B. 

A to J is 'yh inch. 

J to D is waist length, to E full length. 

Square lines D, C and B. 

A to K is ^ breast, plus }/> inch. 

B to F is 7 J breast. 

B to G is y'i breast and '4^ inch. 

B to N is yi bust. 

Square up and down from N. 

O to P is I inch. 

Q to R is J-6 breast. 

Draw a line from R to N and from N througli P. 

Draw a line from R to C. 

R to S is '8 breast. 

R to X is }{ breast. 

X to Y is I inch. 

E to W is 3 inches. 



D to I is i"^ inches. 

1 to 2 is ^ inch. 

2 to 3 is 2^ inches. 

3 to 4 is I inch. 

4 to 5 is 2 J4 inches. 

B to H is J^ breast on division. 

Draw a line from H to I. 

I to 6 is 2i/( inches. 

L to V is J^ inch. 

U is half way between V and H. 

I to Z is 4 inches. 

Draw lines for spring as shown in diagram. 

From J through i for width of back. 

From V through 2 and from K through 3 for back 

and side body. 
From H through 4 and from U through 5 for second 

side body. 
From F through Z for forepart. 
N to 7 and P to 8 is 4^/ inches. 
Sweep from E to 9 by S for front length and shape 

as represented. Add seams when cutting the 

goods. 



oais ee ee 




48 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



«^ 5^ «^ i^ e^ 



THE BALLOON SLEEVE. 



SIX IMECES. 



Take an ordinary close fitting sleeve and lay it 
together at hand and elbow as illustrated in diagram. 
Draw a line from A B K. 
A is elbow. 

Draw a line from H to G. 
Draw a line from I through A to J. 
F to G is ij4 inches. 
Sweep from C to E by A. 

Point E is located by getting center from G D. 
Pivot by E and sweep G D Y. 
Divide parts as shown on diagram i, 2, 3 and 4. 
Y to P is 4 inches. 
Make sweep N O P Q R using E for pivot. 



Draw a line from A through E up to P. 

Locate points 6, 7, 8, 9 and draw a line from i 

through 6 to (J. 
From 2 through 7 to R. 
From 3 through 8 to O. 
From 4 through 9 to N. 
S is 2^ inches above N. 
T is ^ of an inch forward from S. 
Shape as represented. 

Sweep from W to X by R, and from U to Y by S. 
There should be no fullness on the top of the sleeve, 

but from X to G and B to D the sleeve is to be 

gathered in. 



e^ e^ 9^ t^ ^ t^ 




(6) 



5° 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



DOUBLE BREASTED JACKET. 



Waist, 1 6 


Breast, 


35 


Hip, 20 >2 


Bust, 


37 


Full length, 34 


Waist, 


25 




Hip, 


42 



The diagram of Ladies Jacket on opposite page is 
made to button up to neck with a standing turn-down 
collar. The material used in this garment is usually 
of a rough cheviot. The collar and cuffs are of vel- 
vet. The sleeves are cut with only one seam and are 
quite large at top as represented on figure. The 
measures are, as taken over the dress waist, as 
follows: 

Strap, II 

Upper shoulder, 24 

Lower shoulder, 23 

Side length, 8 

TO DRAFT. 

Square lines A D and A O. 

A to B is 1/3 upper shoulder and ^2 inch. 

15 to C is % breast and ]/< inch. 

A to a is )4 inch. 

a to D is waist; to E hip; and F full length. 

Square lines C B D E. 

B to G is half of breast. 

B to H is half of bust. 

H to N is i/^ breast. 

Square up from N to O. 

Square down from H to I. 

I to J is I inch. 

Draw line from O to H and from H through J. 

Draw line from O to C. 

to P is ^ breast. 

A to Q is J/g breast plus '^ inch. 

B to L is )4 lower shoulder less y^ inch. 

M is half way between K and L. 

K is half way between L and M. 

D to I is I inch. 

1 to 2 is ]'2 inch. 

2 to 3 is 2^ inches. 

3 to 5 is I inch. 

5 to 4 is li/^ inches, making the distance of back and 
sidebodies from D to 4, ^ of waist measure. 

W to J is 10 inches. Deduct J/( waist, 6y inches, 
leaving 3^ to be taken out. 

i^ inches is taken out between W and 6, and 2 '^ 
between 8 and 9. 

12 is half way between H and L, and 1^4 inches be- 
low breast line. 

II is 2^ inches from front line. 

For spring in back and sidebodies, follow the 

dotted line as shown in diagram. 





LADIES' D B JACKET. 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



t^ t^ «^» %^ t^ 



THE LEG OF MUTTON SLEEVE. 



Take an ordinary close-fitting sleeve pattern and 
place it in position as shown in diagram, laying the 
outside seams together with the elbow down to the 
hand, then draw a straight line from hand through 
elbow. 

Sweep from B to C by A. 
D is half way between B and C. 
Sweep from E through 6 and FF, using point D for 

pivot. 
I to 2 is the same distance as D to E. 

Use point 2 as pivot and sweep from i through G G. 
Where the two sweeps meet at 3F fill in enough so as 



to make sleeve-top an even run. Fill in from 4 to 5 
as shown in diagram. Point 6 is on an even line 
with points B D. Points 4-4 go together and points 
6 and 7 go together with three pleats on upper sleeve 
between 5 and 6. 

There are 7 to 8 pleats laid between points 6 and 
G, and 6 to 7 pleats between points i and G, letting 
the pleats run down each way from G. The cuff is 
left open on the outside to correspond with the col- 
lar. Width at hand is usually 9 inches. 

Note. — .\11 ladies' garments are cut without seams. 



t^ t^' ^^^ *^* *i^ 



54 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



-•^dSSi^^di^l 




THE NEW BISHOP SLEEVE. 



Take an ordinary close fitting sleeve pattern, cut 

half and half as illustrated by dotted lines, reduce 

the under sleeve as shown by solid lines as follows: 

A to C is 14 inch, and B to D is i inch; add same 

amount to top sleeve from B to E i inch, and A 

to F i^ inch, and M to K is 2i<( inches; add 

same amount from M to N 2^ inches, and O to 

Q i}^ inches; split upper sleeve through center 

from hand to elbow as from P to K, and cut 

across at elbow as from W to M. 

K to S is 8 inches, or three times the distance from 

W to K and S to V. 
Take piece cut out of upper-sleeve and place it over 
so that K P lays on points R T, and draw a line 
across from R to W and V, coming down 2^ 
inches in center below N. 
The extra goods between W and V is pleated in and 
a strap ^ inch wide is stitched on over the 
seam. 



Square up line from R to Z Y. 

R to Z is the same as K to L on under-sleeve, and Z 
to Y is 3 inches and this amount is to be pleated 
to the under sleeve. 

H to F is the same distance as G to C on under- 
sleeve, and F to J is 3 inches; this extra length 
is to be pleated on to under-sleeve. 

Draw a straight line across from J to Y. 

X is half way between J and Y. 

Sweep from Y to J by X. 

Hollow out j!'2 inch at 3, and 3/j^ inch at 4, and add 
^2 inch at J. 
This way of cutting the Bishop sleeve will produce 

a very close fit from elbow down, and an overflowing 

wide sleeve above the elbow; the fullness may be 

either pleated or shirred in. 

The sleeve is finished with a vent, with blind or 

real button-holes and buttons all the way up to the 

elbow, as from P to K. 




■o^^SS-SS&f* 



56 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



DOUBLE BREASTED COAT. 



On opposite page is the diagram of a double- 
breasted coat. The back is cut on the fold of the 
goods and the two back and side seams on each side 
from the top down are finished with box plaits; the 
collar is a high Queen Anne and the sleeves the 
melon style, the pockets are placed in the front gore 
seam as shown In diagram. On next page we present 
a cut of the coat as it appears finished. 

The draft is produced from proportions by the 
following measures: 



Waist, 1 6 

To large part of hip, 24 
Full length, 56 



Breast, 
Bust, 
Waist, 
Hip, 



34 
36 
= 4 
40 



10 DR.^FT. 

Commence by squaring lines .\ E and .\ M. 

A to B is y^ inch. 

B to C is 34^ breast. 

C to D is 3X2 inches. 

B to E waist length to F, prominent part of hip and 

to G full length of coat. 
Square lines D E F. 
D to I is >4 breast. 
D to J is >4 bust. 
Square up and down from J. 
M to P is yi bust. 
P to Q is ^ breast. 
A to R is ^8 breast, plus >^ inch. 
D to L is Yi breast. 
D to K is y'l bieast. 
Square up from L and K. 
Draw line from C to (^. 
D to H is 54 breast on division. 



Square down from H to V. 
E to I is I inch. 

1 to 2 is 3^ inch. 

2 to 3 is 2 '/( inches. 

3 to 4 is [ inch. 

4 to 5 is 2 '4 inches. 
N to O is I inch. 

Draw line from J through O to 15. 

Shape front from J to W up to P. 

Q to W is I4 breast. 

Make width of back from G to 9, yj^ inches. 

F to X is I inch. 

Draw a line from 2 through X to 10. 

10 to II is 15 inches. 

Draw line from 4 to 12 parallel with line to 10. 

1 2 to 13 is 15 inches. 

Y to 6 is 2 '4' inches. 

6 to 7 is 3 incl-.es. 

7 to 8 is I 3/(^ inches. 

Make width of lapel from 15 to 16 half the distance 

there is from 13 to 15. 
Make width of lapel at waist length at 17 half the 

width of forepart from 8 to o. 
Lapel at top from 18 to 19 is 2% inches. 

THE COLLAR. 

Place corner of square at P, letting short arm rest 

on W. 
Square down from P to U. 
Square up and down from LI. 
U to V is 1 inch. 

Add ^ of an inch spring in back at T. 
Shape as represented. 



CVOC) -^S. 



':°J^?^|^S$iSi* 




(7) 



58 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 





THE MELON SLEEVE. 



Length of sleeve to elbow, 8 
Full length, i6 



Width of sleeve at tlliow, 1 1 Draw a line from C through A to B. 

Width at hand, 9 A to B is i ^ inches. 

Take an ordinary close fitting sleeve, cut or tear D is half way between B and C. 

pattern off about 2)^ inches above the elbows as Sweep from B through 2, 3, 4 and 5 to C, for top of 
shown by the shaded pattern on diagram. sleeve. 



6o 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



SINGLE BREASTED BOX OVERCOAT. 



This garment is finished the same as a genlleman's 
box overcoat. It is silk lined throughout, silk faced 
to the front edge and has a soft roll, the seams are 
strapped and the edges double stitched }< to 3/; inch 
wide; there are outside, side and ticket pockets with 
flaps to go in or out, the sleeves are made medium 
size, leg of mutton, finished at the band with a small 
vent 1)4 inches long. The whole garment presents a 
very stylish appearance. The draft is produced from 
the following short measures: 



Strap, 


II 


To largest part of 


hip, 24 


Overshoulder, 


15 


Full length. 


29 


Closing, 


I2>^ 


Breast, 


34 


Blade, 


IO>4 


Bust, 


36 


Depth of scye. 


8 


Waist, 


25 


Length of waist. 


16 


Hip, 


45 



Commence by squaring lines ABC and A Q L. 

A to B is ^ inch. 

B to C is depth of scye 8 inches. 

B to D is length of waist 16 inches; to E largest 

part of hip 24 inches, and to F full length of 

coat 29 inches. 
Square lines C D E and F. 
C to H is blade measure, 10^ inches. 
C to U is J4 breast, 17 inches. 
C to V is J^ bust, 18 inches. 
W is half way between U and V. 
H to I is yi breast. 
Square up and down from I. 
Square up from H to 9. 
H to K is }^ breast. 



Square up from K through L. 

Square down from V to X. 

X to Y is I inch. 

Draw front center line down from V through Y and 

T and up to S. 
G is half way between C and B. 
B to Q is % breast plus }4 inch. 
Apply strap measure from H to M and make a sweep. 
M to L is )'s breast plus yi inch. 
Draw a line from L to G, thus locating point R and 

12 correctly for a normal figure. 
I to 2 is I inch. 

Shape back as represented in diagram. 
Apply over-shoulder measure from H to N and make 

a sweep. 
Cut out back and place point C on point N and 

point B on M. 
Mark off across shoulders and shape as represented. 
Apply closing measure from H to 12, P to O, and 

take off shoulder point at 12 according to 

measure. 
L to S is 14^ breast. 

Draw a line from 9 through 10 for spring of coat. 
Apply hip measure from E to 3, place this amount 

at T and measure back to 4, and add at 4 

whatever is required to make it the width of hip. 
The spring line running from 9 through J, 10 and 4, 

is only intended for normal figure. 
V to 7 and Y to 8 is 2^ inches. 
Shape as represented. 
Add seams when cutting the cloth. 



•»*$SS$:§-:^o>o^<&HgSo^^SS$SS;&«* 



62 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



COACHING COAT. 



The front is cut with a separate piece 8}4 inches wide 
set in. The back is finished with a strap 3^4 inches 
wide. The seams and edges may be double stitched or 
strapped 3/^ inch wide. There are two outside pockets 
with flaps to go in and out. There are also two outside 
pockets on the breast in the front piece as indicated by 
dotted lines. The sleeves are close fitting from the 
elbow down. The top part of sleeve is finished with a 
double box pleat and the top of sleeve heads are fin- 
ished witli double box pleats. The draft is produced by 
proportions from breast and bust measures as follows: 



Draw a straight line up and down from F to L and F to 
G. G to H is width at hartd. D to K is 18 inches. 

L is half way between E and K. 

Square a line from L to M. 

Sweep from E through P, N, to K, using point M as a 
pivot. C to Q is 5 inches. Draw line from Q to K. 

This extra amount from C to Q is added for a double 
box pleat to be laid on the top of upper sleeve. 

P to O is 1 3/^ inches. Lay line Q K on the fold of the 
goods when cutting the cloth. Shape as repre- 
sented, and add seams in cutting the cloth. 



To waist, 


16 


Sleeve at elbow, 


1 1 


Full length, 


34 


Sleeve at hand. 


q'/ 


Sleeve to elbow. 


8-4 


Bust, 


•16 


Full length. 


1 6 ;4 







TO DRAFT. 

Square lines A B C D and A T R. 

A to B is ^ breast on division and 4 inches. 

A to 2 is 14 inch. E is halfway between 2 and B. 

2 to C is natural waist length, 16 inches, and to 
D full length of coat, 34 inches. 

Square lines B C and D. B to G is fi of breast. 

H is half way between B and G. 

I is ^ of an inch forward of H. 

B to F is }^ bust measure. Square up from I. 

Square up and down from G. 

Square down from F to V. V to W is i '2 inches. 

Draw a line from F through W to X. 

F to P is i'6 bust. Square up from P to Q. 

Draw a line from Q to E. Q to R is 'g breast. 

A to T is 1 8 breast. Draw a line from T to U. 

T to 3 is }{> inch. C to 12 is i inch. 

R to S is the same distance as 3 to U. 

Draw a line from 2 through 12 to 13. 

B to J is _^ breast on division. 

Square down from J to K. K to L is i }4 inches. 

Draw a line from J through L to O. 

Hollow back to L J/^ inch. K to M is 1 1^ inches. 

Draw a line from J through M to N. 

Hollow forepart ^ of an inch at M. 

Draw a line from F to Q. Q to Z is yi, breast. 

Z to 8 is I inch. F to 4 is 4)4 inches. 

W to 5 and X to 9 is the same. 

F to 6 and X to 10 is 4^ inches. 

The width of lapel at notch is 3}4 inches and 
the collar 3 inches. 

From G to Y is ?_; of inside length of sleeve. The 
width of the pocket is 6 inches and there is 
fi of this amount from Y to front end of 
pocket and ' _; from Y to back end of pocket. 

Shape as represented in diagram and add seams 
when cutting the cloth. 

THE SLEEVE. 

Draw a straight line from A through C to K. 

A to B is length of sleeve 17 inches. 

C is half way between A and B. 

B to D is 2 inches. Square across at C and D. 

D to E is y'i of sleeve length. 

C to F is width of sleeve at elbow. 




64 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



dt dt dt dt ^ dt 



HALF CIRCLE CAPE. 



The half circle cape is cut in the following manner. 
(See Diagram A). 
Square up and down from A. 
A to B is 4 inches and A to U is y^ breast. 
B to C is ^ inch. 

C to V is length of waist and to X full length. 
Square lines B A U and V. 

A to D is ys, D to E is >^ and E to F is }a breast. 
F to G is }i breast. 
Square out from G through K J to 3. 
G to K is %, K to J is '4, J to I is >^ and I to H is 

y^ breast. 
Square up and down from H. 
A to L and H to L is the same as A to G. 
M is yi inch below C. Sweep from M to N by L. 
Draw a line from L to G. 
B to O is ya breast. 
Sweep from O to Q by G, locating points T R S, and 

where sweeps cross at Q is the front shoulder 

point. 
Draw a line from O to G and from Q to G. 
Sweep from F to K by G, locating points i and 2. 



Make distance from T to S the same as distance 

from I to 2. 
H to 3 is one inch, draw a line from L through 3 for 

front. 
V to 7 is ^ inch and VV to 8 the same. 
Apply length desired from C to X and sweep from X 

to Y using point R as pivot. Add enough at 

points X and Y to make it an even run at 

bottom. 

THE FULL CIRCLE CAPE 

Is cut in the following manner. (See Diagram B). 

Square up and down from A. This line represents 
the center of cape. 

Square across at A. 

A to B is '6 neck, A to C is it neck and A to D is J4^ 
neck. Apply length from C to E F G or I or 
whatever length desired, and make a sweep using 
point B for pivot and lengthen front and back 
so as to get an even run. 

C is the back, B the side and D the front of neck. 
The collar on either of these capes may be a 

standing, turn down or a high standing collar. 



e^ e^ ^ e^ e^ 




(8) 



66 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



CAPE. 



The diagram of three-quarter circle cape on 
opposite page consists of one large and one 
small cape. The larger cape is cut with a 
V in the shoulder; it has regular pocket with 
flaps to go out and in, same as a man's over- 
coat. The front is finished with a fly and but- 
tons up to the neck with five buttons on the front. 
An armhole in the shape of an opening of 8 inches 
in each side of the cape is made so that the lady can 
pass her arms through and get into the pockets. 

The collar is 2 inches standing and 2]/^ inches turn 
down and closes in front with two hooks and eyes. 
The small or top cape is made plain. It has a 2)^ 
inch standing collar made with a fly, with button 
holes and buttons on to the larger cape. The draft 
is produced by the proportions of the breast and 
bust measures, as follows; 

Breast measure, 34 inches, taken snug. 
Bust measure, 36 inches, taken easy. 
Full length of cape, 34 inches. 
Full length of small cape, 22 inches. 
Neck, over dress collar, 17 inches. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw straight line A B. 
Square cross line ECHO. 
B to A is J^ breast, on division. 
B to C is i/S bust. 

Place corner of square at A, letting short arm rest at 
C, and square A C and .\ S D. 



B to H is >^ bust. 

Square down from H and draw dotted line from A 

to H. 
Place corner of square at A with short arm resting on 

H, and square line from A through F J P and V. 
A to E is ^ breast on division. 
A to F is ^ breast, on division. 
A to G is J^ breast, on division. 
G to K is Vi inch. 
Apply length of cape from E to S and D, and sweep 

from D to M by A foi^ front length. 
Add from P Q to V R ]/(, breast and shape as shown 

in diagram. 
H to O and M to N is 2 inehes for lap in front. 

The large cape is cut with a V in the shoulder and 

the following simple method is used in obtaining it: 

F to J is y'i breast. 

Split pattern through from A F j and P V and pivot 
at J, letting points P V lay over to Q R, letting it 
overlap so that point 8 on back will be 2 inches 
from shoulder point F, and paste or pin pattern 
together from J to P Q and V R. 

On the small or top cape there is no V taken out in 
the shoulders. 

.The collar is very easily understood, as it is simply a 
straight piece of cloth shaped a trifle in making, 
so that the top edge will be a trifle shorter when 
finished. K to 2 and i to 3 is the stand, 2 
inches high; 2 to 4 and 3 to 5 is the turn down, 
2 yi inches. 




68 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



COMBINATION CAPE METHOD. 



On opposite page will be found a combination 
method of drafting capes. From this method may 
be drafted the i/^ circle military cape or the regular 
shoulder cape with a seam in the center of shoulder. 
The accompanying draft is for a normal figure. 

TO DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line from A down to R. 

Make a point at A. 

A to B is J^ breast. 

A to C is i^ breast. 

Square back from C to D. 

C to D is >^ breast. 

Lay corner of square at point A, letting short arm 

rest at point D and draw back center line from 

A to E. 
A to F is }i breast. 
A to G is ^ breast. 
F to S is i/^ breast. 
Square up from S to T. 
Square lines from G through P to O, and from B 

through P to N. 
Draw line from A through point P to "leopard spot." 
Apply length desired from F to E. 
Sweep from E through N* O to R using point T as 

pivot. 
C to U is 2^ inches. 
Square down from U to V. 
Draw line from A through W to U. 
Add from W to X and U to Y, 2 inches, or whatever 

is desired for lap in front. 
The full size of the draft will make a three-fourths 
circle cape, and by splitting it through on the shoulder 
from T to P and plaiting N over to O as per dotted 
line 8, 9, P O, we have a 3^ circle with a V taken out 
in the shoulder. By cutting pattern as illustrated by 
the shaded portions the regular cape is obtained. 



THE PRUSSIAN COLLAR. 

The collar is drafted by drawing a line from i to 2. 
Square down from i to 3. 

1 to 3 is 2 inches. 

Shape from 2 to 3 as illustrated in diagram. 

2 to 5 is I J^ inches for stand. 
5 to 6 is 3 inches. 

I to 4 is 2 inches. 

Lay corner of square at 3, letting arm rest on point 

4 and square down from 3 to 7 for front of 

collar. 

VARIATIONS. 

For a lady with a long neck add from C to M 
whatever extra height in neck is desired, square back 
from N to J and lay corner of square at point A, 
draw back center line from A to K as indicated by 
dotted line. 

For a short neck figure go up from C to L what- 
ever extra amount neck is shorter than proportion. 
Sfluare out to point H and draw back center line 
from A to I as indicated by dot and dash line. For 
stooped or erect figures slide point A up or down on 
back center line according to whatever stoop or 
erect is wanted. 

For a J/2 inch stooped form go down from A to 2, 
half an inch, and for a j'2 inch erect form go back 
from A to 3, half inch, then change the neck gorge 
to conform to the new center point, /. e., for a 
stooped figure 2 to F should be ^ and 2 to B _^ 
breast, and in an erect figure 3 to F is }'i and 3 to B 
M^. The cape is usually made fly-front and has a 
Prussian collar. 

Note. — This method of cutting capes will hold 
good for both ladies and gentlemen. 



*«*««$■€' 




I'^^l^a S:^$» 



x\\ 




7° 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 




BICYCLE SUIT. 



THE COAT. 

Square lines A N and A B D. 

A to C is 3}4 inches. 

C to B is ^ breast and Y-z inch. 

A to a is ^ inch. 

a to D is waist length, to F full length desired. 

D to E is ^ of the waist length. 

Square lines B C D E. 

B to J is y'l breast. 

B to K is ^3 breast. 

B to G is J^ breast. 

B to H is >4 bust. 

I is half way between G and H. 

I to M is ]i bust. 

B to L is half breast on division. 

Square up J K M and square down from L to V and 

H to T. 
T to U is I inch. 
The waist suppression is regulated as follows; D to 

W is I >,{. inches and W to X y, inch; X to Y 3 



inches and Y to Z 2 inches, making the distance 
from D to V J4^ of waist measure. 

Apply measure from V to U and find out how much 
more it measures than ){ waist and divide the 
difference into three parts and take out y'l each 
between i and 2, 3 and 4, and 5 to 6. Let 
spring of sidebody run through point E. Side- 
body and underarm piece overlap i}4 inches 
from 7 to 8 and i y^ inches overlap from 9 to 
10 and y-2 inch is taken out between 11 and 12. 

U to I is 1^ inches. 

Draw line from C to N. 

N to O is i^ breast. 

A to Q is y% breast plus VX inch. 

O to P is ^4; bust. 

O to S is the same as Q to R. 

R to 14 is 1)4 inches. 

14 to 15 is Yi inch. 

Shape as represented in diagram. 



72 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



CYCLING KNICKERS. 



The cycling knickers on opposite page is produced 
from the following measures: 

Rise, lo I Waist, 24 I Band at knee, 14 

Outside length to knee, 23 '4 Seat, 40 

Note. — The rise is taken from the hip to seat of 
chair. Lady sitting. 

TO DRAFT. 

Square lines A O N and A B C. 

A to B is rise, lo; .'\ to C is outside length to 
knee, 23 'j- 

C to D is 4 inches and D to E is 4 inches. 

Scjuare lines B C D E. 

B to F ^2 seat on division. 

F to G Is of seat measure on division. 

Square up from F to N and down from G to L. 

H is halfways between B and G. 

I is half way between C and J. 

Draw a line tlirough center I H 10. 

N to O is y^ of waist measure and 2 inches. 

Take out i inch darts at 4 and 5 as shown in dia- 
gram. 

L to V is 2^ inches. 

E to W is 2j4 inches. 

J to U is ^ inch. 

C to X is 1}^ inches. 

Shape forepart as shown in diagram taking out three 
darts at the bottom at i, 2 and 3. 

Lengthen forepart at 2 -'4 inch. 



THE HACK PART. 

F to M is '6 of seat. 

10 to P is '6 of seat. 

G to T is ' of seat. 

O is half way between 10 and P. 

B to S is 2 inches. 

X to Y is 3/| inch. 

W to Z is J4^ inch. 

Apply waist measure from N to O deducting darts 
and from Q to R making it ^i waist and 4 inches. 

Take out 2 darts each i -'4 inches at 6 to 7 and 8 to 9. 

A two-inch band put all round the waist with open- 
ings in the side 5 '_• inches down from O to 11. 

This opening is made with a fly and has two small 
buttons. 

Pockets may also be placed in the fly. 

A hook and eye is placeil at the waist band at the side. 

The back part is cut straight across at the bottom 
and has no darts taken out. 

The bottom is gathered in and sewed on to the band 
one inch and a half wide. 

An opening is made in the side about 4 inches up, as 
from W to 12. This opening is also made with 
a fly and has one small button. 

When on the lady points E and L will come up to 
line C J and button close around the leg just 
below the knee allowing the extra length to 
overlap; the full length will then be as to line 
D K. The distance from C to D may be 
according to style or fancy, but I find in my 
practice that 4 inches is just about right. 



«^ t^ f^ ^^ i^ 




(9) 



74 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



DIVIDED RIDING SKIRT. 



The divided skirt on opposite page is produced in 
the following manner from the following measures: 



Outside length, 40)/^ 


Waist, 


24 


Inside length, 2g}4 


Seat, 


42 


TO D 


RAFT. 





Square lines A B and A J. 

A to B is II inches. 

Square out from B to D. 

B to C is V2 seat (on division). 

C to D is ys seat. 

E is half-way between B and D. 

Square down to F and square out each way from F 

to H and G. 
C to K is }i seat. 
Draw a line from K to D. 
1 is half-way between K and D. 
I to 2 is -'/( inch. 

Draw a line from J through D to H. 
H to G is 27 inches or the full width of the goods 

used. 
Draw a line from G to A and shape hip from Y to 7. 
J to W is ys inch. 
Take out two V's in forepart as from 3 to 4 and 

S to 6, making the forepart V{ of net waist 

measure. 
Lengthen forepart from F to T from 1 1^ to 2 inches, 

enough to make it an even run at bottom. 



THE BACKPART. 

E to P is the same as F to G. 

Draw a line from G through P to O. , 

Sweep from A to O by G. 

Q is half-way between A and O. 

Draw a line from O to G. 

The backpart may be turned over so that P rests on 

1 and O on H. In this manner the outside may 
be cut on the fold and a V taken out over the 
hip at A. 

Take out a one inch V as from Q to R. 

K to L is i.'S seat. 

Sweep from D to M by H. 

D to M is yi seat plus yi inch. 

Draw a line from H to M. 

Draw a line from L to J. 

W to N is 2 inches. 

The waist is finished with a regular band i}.4 inches 

wide, the back skirt is gathered or pleated in. 

The opening is usually in the side. 
For bicycle, an e.xtra front piece may be buttoned on, 

as indicated by broken lines. 
To draft the front piece draw a line from W through 

2 to V. 

W to X is 4 inches. 
V to U is 12 inches. 

For bicycle riding the skirt is usually cut 6 to 8 
inches shorter than the regular full length. 



*»«*•■ 




iidsssee** 



76 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 




[llAl.kAM A. 



BICYCLE SKIRT. 



The diagram represents the full circle divided into 
eight equal parts. The parts that are shaded pin 
checked represent the skirt, the plain parts with 
dotted lines represent the pleats, and the diagonal 
portion is cut out of the circle. 

TO PRODUCE THE DRAFT. 

Draw a straight line as from i to 2, square crossways 
as from 7 to 8; then take half the distance from 
I to 7, 7 to 2, 2 to 8, 8 to I, and draw across 
lines 3 to 4, and 5 to 6. This may be done by 
taking a square piece of paper and folding it 
four times. 



Start at center — to F is '3 of waist measure; line H 
is to prominent part of hip; letters F, F, is 
front; S, S, sides; B, B, back. The pleats may 
be cut in a separate piece of cloth. The reverse 
double box pleat is laid in front and both sides. 
The back is a triple fold box pleat. 

The bottom of skirt is finished with a mohair braid, 
laid on flat. 

The skirts may be made with or without lining, but 
should have an extra lining from the waist down 
to the hips, and the pleats fasten down to the 
lining at the hip. The opening may be made in 
the back or in the sides. Add seams. 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



77 



BICYCLE SUIT. 



DIVIDED SKIRT. 




DIAGRAM B. 

Diagram B represents a divided skirt and is drafted 
on the same principles as the bicycle skirt. 

Square lines A, C, F and A, D, E. 

B is halfway between C and D. 

Draw a line from A through B. 

A to B is y'i waist measure. 

B to G is length of skirt, 34 inches. 

Sweep from C to D by A and from I through G to H 
by A. 

Add for pleats as shown in diagram. 

The crossed lines represent the parts that makes 
the divided skirt. 

C to I and I to 2 is 2)4 inches. 

F to 4 is I ^ of seat measure. 

Draw a line from C through 4 to 3. 

3 is 2 inches above J. 

7 to 8 and 10 to 9 is 2}^ inches. 

E to 5 is i"? seat. 

5 to 6 is Vs seat. 



Draw a line from D through 6 to it. 

D to 7 is iS seat. 

R to 9 and H to 10 is j^ seat. 

Shape as represented. 

3 to 4 and 1 1 to 6 are sewed together. 

Lines 8 9 go in with the pleat in the back and lines 

I 2 go into the pleat in front. 
Finish as represented. Add seams. 

THE CAP. 

To more fully illustrate the method of cutting the 
cap all six pieces are shown, but when once under- 
stood only one piece is required in drafting. The 




first point to consider is the size of the cap; say it is 
size 7 (21 inches), 7 inches being the diameter of cap 
wanted we take half of seven 354 inches, and make 
a circle using point B as a pivot then divide the circle 
by }i making each piece ^}i inches the total of 
which is 21 inches or size 7. Now it is not neces- 
sary to go to all this trouble in drafting a cap as the 
same principle may be applied in cutting the pattern 
out of one piece. 
Draw line ABC. 



78 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



BICYCLE SUIT. 



THE CAP. (continued.) 

Square across E A E. 

A to J is 2 '4 inches or any height required. 

J to B is )4 of the size or % of circumference of cap. 

Sweep from J each way to D D. 

A to E is ^ each way making each piece from E to 

E i-^, or if only 4 pieces y:^ and if a 5-piece cap 

is wantefl J and so on. 
Square up lines from E to i and E to 6. 
Square across from i to 6 and draw lines from i to 

B and 6 to B thus forming a triangle i 6 B. 

This triangle will only come in a six piece cap. 

In shaping the crown add 3/^ of an inch round at 7 

7 so as to make the crown stand out, and if a snug 

cap is wanted reduce or round off a trifle at D D. 

THE VISOR. 

Visor from F to F and F is half way of the cap. 
Width of the visor from F to G or H is all the way 

from I }4 to 7 inches, according to style and fancy. 
Draw a line BAG. 
B to F is I'j of circumference of head or the size of 

cap 7. Sweep F F F by B. 

THE LEGGINS. 




Draw line A B. 

A to B is the length, 16 inches. 

A to D is 4 inches. 

B to C is 4 inches. 

Square lines ABC and D. 

Line H is half way between L and G. 

C to K is ^4 inch. 

A to E is ^ of leg measure. 

D to F is J4 of calf measure. 

K to G is ^ of ankle measure. 

K to L is ^ of instep measure. 

L to M is )^ of width at bottom. 

Shape as shown in diagram. 

The buttons are placed in the center of the leggin 

and edge. N O is % inch from outer end of 

button-holes. A one-inch button stand is added 

from the center on the under part. 

Note. — Add seams when cutting the cloth as no 

seam is allowed in pattern. 

RIDING BREECHES. 

To enable the cutter to produce a close fitting pair 
of riding breeches it becomes necessary for him or 
her to have a close measure, and no lady will object 
to be measured in the proper manner, the same as 
we would measure a man for the same kind of gar- 
ment. However, the following rule may be used to 
advantage: If the outside length is 42 the inside will 
be 31 and the rise 11. Take the outside length, 
divide it by 4, and take }( plus ^4 inch for the rise. 
The remainder, ^ less yi inch, will be the leg. 

The knee is two inches above one-half of inside 
length; the ankle is two and one-half inches above 
full length of leg. The accompanying diagram is 
produced from the following measures: 



Outside, 


42 


Waist, 


24 


Knee, 


15 


Inseam to knee. 


13/2 


Seat, 


42 


Calf, 


IS 


To ankle. 


28-^ 


Thigh, 


2S>^ 


Ankle, 


8V2 



TO DR.-^FT. 

Draw line A B to E. 

Square out from A to T. 

A to B is rise, 11 inches. 

B C is length to knee, 13^^ inches. 

C to D is two inches extra length added for bend 

of knee and ease; to E is inside length plus 2 

inches. 
Square across B, D and E. 
B to F is one-half seat (on division). 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



79 



RIDING BREECHES. (CONTINUED.) 

Square up from F to T. 

F to G is ^ seat. 

F to I is j^i seat. 

Draw a line from I to G. 

S is half way between I and G. 

S to Y is ^ inch. 

Draw a line from I to J and K. 

J to K is I inch. 

H is half way between B and G. 

E to N is the same as B to H. 

Draw center line from N through M, H to L and U. 

Apply one-fourth knee measure from M to R and M 

to Q. 
.\pply one-fourth of ankle measure from N to O and 

N to P, and apply the calf measure in like manner 

at i6. 
T to I is inch. 

1 to 2 is 2^2 inches. 

2 to 3 is y^ inch. 

3 to 4 is 2 J^ inches. 

4 to 5 is J^ inch. 

5 to 6 is 2j^ inches. 

Shape forepart as represented. 

THE BACKPART. 

E.xtend lines at waist, seat, knee and bottom. ■ 

G to X is t'j seat. 

L to U is 3 inches. 

Draw a line from I to U. 

K to W is 2j^ inches. 

R to II is ^ inch. 

Q to 12 is yi inch. 

1 6 is 4 inches below knee. 

N to 17 and N to 18 is i inch. 

17 to 13 and iS to 14 is one-fourth ankle measure 

and j4 inch. Apply the measure over the calf 

at 16. 
Add a button stand as indicated by broken line at 15. 
Take out a half inch V at M as indicated by dotted 

lines. 
U to 7 is 2j4 inches. 

7 to 8 is I inch. 

8 to g is 2^ inches. 

9 to 10 is 13^ inches. 

10 to V is 2^ inches. 
Shape as represented. 



To top is finished with a regular waist band. The 
opening may be made in the sides, or quite 
often they are made with a regular fly front. 
Seams are included in this draft. 



(^ 



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u 71 



'firT^ 




'A'-htnri I- ^^ 



8o 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



RIDING JACKET. 



By proportions from the following measurements: 



Height, 5 feet 4 inches. 
Breast, 34 inches. 



Bust, 36 inches. 
Waist, 24 inches. 



TO DR.^FT. 

Square lines A B D and ATS. 

A to B is 3j^ inches, being /< of height plus 'i inch. 

B to C is }i( breast plus }4 inch. 

A to D is i6)4 inches, being }( of height plus }4 
inch. 

Square lines B C and D. 

C to E is j4 breast, and to F is yi full bust. 

Divide breast into eight equal parts. 

C to H is ^, H to I is i.^, I to J is '^, J to K is li, 
K to L is _!-§. 

Square up lines J and L. 

Points J V and U L will then form the diameter of 
scye, but as the scye in a lady's garment is 
somewhat wider than in a gentleman's, I advance 
from L to 10 one-half inch and recede from 
J to 1 1 one-half inch. The arm scye will then 
be nearly a circle, as indicated by dotted line 
27-21. 

Point G is half way between E and F. 

Square up from G to R. 

Divide distance between G and 10 into three equal 
parts and locate points O and P, and square up 
points O and P. 

Z is halfway between B and V. 



Draw a line from T through Z to 12. This line wi/ 

locate top of front shoulder, also lower shoulder 

point of back at W. 
A to X is ys breast. Draw a 4ine from X through 

point W down to 21, add from X to 13, yi inch, 

and shape as represented. 
A to 22 is j4 inch. 
It will be seen that the distance from K to W is the 

same as K to 21, and the distance from 27 to Y 

is the same as 27 to 21. 
Square down from F to 15, and advance from 15 to 

16 one inch. Then draw a line from 16 to F 

and a line from S to F. 
S to 19 is yi breast, and 19 to 20 is ^ inch. 
F to 21 and 16 to 18 is i '<( inches. 
Shape front as represented. 
D to 23 is 1 inch, and D to 24 is 6 inches. 
D to I is I ^'2 inches. 

1 to 2 is yi inch. 

2 to 3 is 2^4^ inches. 

3 to 4 is I inch. 

4 to 5 is 2\( inches, thus making the back and side 

body and underarm piece j^ of waist measure. 
15 to 17 is •'s inch. 
17 to 9 is I 5^6 inches. 
9 to 8 is ^ inch. 
8 to 7 is 2'/S inches. 
14 to 6 is Jj4 inches. 
Shape as represented. 






"vK 




(10 ) 



82 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



RIDING SKIRT. 



niagram on opposite page. The measures used 
in drafting are as follows: 

Full length of skirt 40 inches. Waist, 24. 

From waist to right knee, in a sitting position, 
18^ inches. The width of skirt is regulated by the 
length, the width of the skirt being twice its length. 

TO DRAFT THE FOREPART. 

Square lines A X and A C. 

A to B is 4 inches. 

B to C is ' .? waist. 

Sweep from C through 5 to D using B as pivot. 

A to E is 14 waist. 

G is half way between A and E. 

E to ¥ is >'8 length of skirt. 

E to X is full length of skirt, 40 inches. 

F to L is 40 inches or same as length of skirt. 

L to M is yd the distance from F to L. 

Square up from M to O. 

Draw a line from O to C, and add above line i^ 

inches as shown in diagram. 
Lay corner of square at O, letting arm rest at point 
L and draw a line down from O througli P L to Q. 

Apply measure iS'j inches from 5 to 6, and take 
out a slash of i inch in the center running out to 
nothing at 5 and 6. The lower part should be cut 
J^ of an inch shorter than the top and stretched out 
so as make tiiis part hollow and fit in close in the 
lap when in a sitting position. 

Point 10 is half way between point 6 and line M 
O. The dart at O is 1 j-^ inches and the dart at P is 
I inch. 

Shape left side from H down to F as shown in 
diagram. 



THE BACK PART. 

F to R is 20 inches being the same as the length of 
the skirt. 

T is half way between F and R. 

Square up from T to U and draw a line from U to E 
for top of back. 

G to J is 4 inches. 

Shape left side from J to through I to F. 

Apply waist measure from C to 5 and D. Place this 
amount at I and measure up to U, and what- 
ever amount is over the full waist measure is to 
be taken out in two darts as from i to 2 and 

3 to 4- 
R to S is 2 inches. 
Draw line from U through S and 7. 
Draw a parallel line from T through 12 to 11. 
Lay corner of square at S letting long arm rest at U 

and square down to 12. 
R to V is 5 inches. 
Square down from V to W. 
12 to R is I !-'2 inches longer than 12 to S. 
II to 7 is 1 -)-4 inches longer than 11 to 8. 
A V of I )i( inches is taken out between 7 and 8. 
Measure back part from U to S, R to 7 and 8 to \V 

and make forepart the same length from C to 

O, P to Q. 
There is a 5 to 6-inch turn-up or hem at the 
bottom of skirt and the top of the skirt must be lined. 
The opening is made on the left side as illustrated 
on the pattern, also a pocket is either put lengthwise 
in the side seam or crossways as indicated on 
diagram. .\n elastic strap is sewed on the forepart 
for the foot to hold the skirt down. 



■«Si5$$!S$:S5 



iS^SSSSSs* 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OK CUT TING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 



RIDING SKIRT. 



This riding skirt is more form fitting than the 
preceding one. It is drafted from the proportions of 
the size of waist, hip and length of skirt as follows: 

Waist, 26 I Hip, 42 | Length of skirt, 40 

THE FOREPART (sEE DIAGRAM A). 

Draw a straight line A B C. 
Square across from A to L. 
A to B is '/a of k-ngth and to D full length of skirt' 

and if extra length is desired add from one to 

two inches extra. 
D to C is ]/(, of length. 
Square lines B C and D. 
B to E is one-eighth of hip (14^ on division). 
E to F is one-fourth of length. 
F to G is one-eighth of hip {]^ on division). 



H to J is one-eighth of hip (■<( on division). 

F to N is ij^ inches. 

L to M is j/^ hip on division. 

.V to I is one inch. 

Take out a V as between 2 and 3 so as to make 

distance from i to 2, 3 to M, one two inches 

less than half of waist measure. 
Draw a line from M to N. 
Sweep from M to K by N. 
N to 4 is ]'} hip on division. 
4 to 5 is 2 inches. 

K to 7 is I inch and K to 6 is i inch. 
Draw straight line from 7 to N. 
8 to 9 is one inch. 

(See back part Diagram B on page 87.) 



A^ «^ A^ A^ A^ 



86 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADiES' GARMENTS. 




«««««««» 



RIDING SKIRT. 



THE liACKPART (DIAGRAM li). 

Square line A B D. 

Square across at A. 

A to B is }i length. 

A to C is )i( length. 

Square lines B and C. 

C to E is one-eighth hip ( ^4 on division). 

E to F is ys length and F to G is i-s length. 

G to H is one-eighth hip {y^ on division). 

K is lialf ways between F and L. 

Draw a line from K through P and R forming point 

Q, and sweep from a to R by Q. 
Sweep from R to S by K. 
S to T is 2 inches. 
G to I is I ^ inches. 
Sweep from T to U by I. 
O to V is I }( inches. 
V to U is 1 3^ inches. 



A to D is length, the same as A to D on the fore- 
part. 

VV to X is 3 inches. 

X to Y is ^ of hip (3^ on division). 

Reduce waist one inch at A and one inch in a V 
between A and R. 

M to I is I )^ inches and i to 3 is 6 inches. 

3 to 5 is 4 inches. 

N to 2 is I ^ inches. 
2 to 4 is 3 inches. 

4 to 6 is 10 inches. 
L to 7 is one inch. 

Shape as represented and add seam when cutting the 

cloth. 
The opening is in the left side as from A to B, which 

is finished with a fly. 
The skirt must be lined over the knee as indicated 

by dotted lines. 



■WSSSSS^^o 




^S€e«s«»* 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



VARIATIONS. 



THE CORPULENT FIGURE. 

(Diagram B). 
A to B is 4 inches (normal height 5 feet 4 inches). 
B to C ^ breast. 

C to F is half breast and C to G half bust. 
H is halfways between breast and bust. 
H to J is ^ bust; square up to K. 
N is halfways between B and 6. 
Draw a line from N to K. 
K to L is ^ breast. 

I is halfways between C and F; square down to E. 
Square down from H to R and advance from R to S 

one inch. 
Shape front center from K through X, G to S, as 
illustrated by crossed line. The crossed lines 
represent the normal draft. 

To change from the normal to the corpulent I take 
as a standard that the normal waist should be ten 
inches less than the breast measure. The accom- 
panying draft Diagram B is 34 breast, 36 bust, and 
24 waist. Now if we want to change this to 30 waist 
we have six inches of extra fat, as we are cutting or 
drafting only half of the body we only use 3 inches, 
half of the extra fat, and add from S to U, 2 inches, 
being Yi of the extra fat and from E to T we add the 
remainder i inch or one-third of the extra fat. I 
then suppress between D and T enough so as to 
make it one-fourth of the waist, and takeout enough 
in the darts and side to make it measure one-fourth 
waist from from T to U. Sweep from S to V by G 
for front length, recede from K to W 14^ inch for 
every inch the front has been advanced from S to U, 
then draw a line from W to N and go back from W 
to I J^ breast. 

P to 2 is the same as L to i and X to 3 is the same 
as L to I. 

For smaller waist than normal I suppress in darts 
and side so as to make forepart measure one-fourth 
waist as from T to"S (see Diagram A), and the back 



one-fourth waist from E to T. Never take out more 
than Yi inch between back and side body at waist, 
but take the extra suppression out between side-body 
and underarm piece, and in the side between under- 
arm piece and point T. 

LONG AND SHORT NECK. 

(Diagram A). 

The depth of scye, the dorsal length, as from A 
to D contains two different quantities. A to B being 
the shortest distance is obtained from the height and 
is called the minor dorsal length, the distance from 
B to D being the longer distance is called the major 
dorsal length, and is obtained from the breast or size 
of arm. If we have a short figure to cut for the 
minor dorsal length will become shorter as illustrated 
by point r, and if a longer figure the minor dorsal 
length becomes longer as indicated by point 2. The 
minor dorsal length is three sixty-fourths of entire 
height. M L N is the regular shoulder, i i N is the 
short neck and 2 2 N is the long necked figure. V 
to L is the normal front length of shoulder. V to i 
is the short neck and V to 2 the long necked figure. 
These variations are obtained by either a shoulder 
measure or short measures, depth of scye and strap 
length. 

Points 3, 4, 5 and 6 represent the diameter of the 
scye. 7 is halfways between I and 4. N is half- 
ways between 6 and 8 plus one-quarter the difference 
between breast and bust measure. 

Y is halfways between 4 and 5 and X halfways be- 
tween 3 and 4; the distance from Y to P O and X 
must be the same as Y 8 N to X. 

The major dorsal length from B to C is ^ breast 
on division and C to D is J4 inch. 

It will be noticed that the front shoulder points 
also the center of neck as at K i and 2 remains on 
the same perpendicular line in all cases, also points 
M I and 2 on the back. 



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90 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



VARIATIONS. 



The easiest way of finding whether our client 
stands normal, erect, or stooped, undoubtedly is by 
a comparison of the upper shoulder measure and 
length of strap in the following manner: 

In a normal figure the strap will measure one inch 
less than half of the upper shoulder as follows: 

Strap, II I Upper shoulder, 24 

(See Diagram A.) 

A to C is one-third upper shoulder plus )4 inch, and 
C to B is ^ breast (on division) plus •^ inch. 
M is always half-way between B and L. 
D is half-way between half of breast and half of bust 

measures.' 
D to E is 14 bust (this is the only point that I use 

the division of bust for). 
Square up from E to K. 

In a normal figure point K is on the same line with A. 
Draw a line from K to M. 
K to N is ^ breast. 

The solid lines represent the normal pattern, and 
the broken lines the erect, which is produced from 
the following measures: Strap, 11 J4; upper shoulder, 
24; half of strap is 12, one inch less makes it 11, 
which is the normal strap to a 24 upper shoulder. 
By comparing the normal strap, 11, to our measure, 
which is 1 1 yi, we find that our client is j/3 inch erect, 
so I lower the back y^ inch as from A to i, and raise 
the front ]/2 inch as from K to i, and draw a line 
from M to i, which is yi inch above K. Points i, 

1, I indicate the pattern for the ereet form on Dia- 
gram A. 

The stooping form is illustrated on Diagram B. 
The solid lines represent the normal figure, the broken 
lines 2, 2, 2, are for the stooped figure from the 
following measures: Strap, 10 J^; upper shoulder, 24; 
half of upper shoulder is 12, one inch less is 11 
By comparing this amount with the strap measure, 
which is }4 inch less, we find that our client is yi 
inch stooped. Raise the back )4 inch, as from A to 

2. Lower front same amount as from K to 2. Draw 
a line from M to 3^ inch below K, as at 2. 

Nora. — -I find in practice that very few ladies are 
stooped, the most of them being erect, therefore a 
number of diagrams in this work are drafted erect in 
the following manner: 



I go back from D to E i^ bust; then from E to 
F }i breast; and draw up line from F to top line, 
and allow front shoulder point to come up to top 
line as in Diagram A. This will make the normal 
pattern ]{, inch erect, or in all }4 inch erect, if the 
back is not lowered, but if the back is lowered yi 
inch then we will make the pattern one inch erect. 

LARGE AND SMALL BLADE. 

In a normal pattern the blade from C to I is ^3 
of breast, and G to H is ^ bust. The normal blade 
will measure ^^ inch less than half of the lower 
shoulder measure. 

If two-thirds of breast, as from C to I, measures 
say 111/2 and half of the lower shoulder is 12, then 
we have a normal blade, but if half of the lower 
shoulder is only iiyi, then we have a ],^ inch smaller 
blade than normal, and we recede J^ inch, as from I 
to I, and J to i. 

Whenever blade is smaller than normal and point 
I is moved back say J/o inch, point H must recede ]^ 
inch as from H to i, N to i and Q to i. The small 
blade is indicated by broken lines marked i, i, i, 
and the large blade by dash and dot lines marked 2, 
and whatever front of scye is moved forward or 
back the shoulder must be changed one-half ti e 
amount forward or back. 

Diagram D represents an ordinary standing collar. 
A to B is J^ the neck. 

B to C is ij^ inches, or to style and fancy. 
A to I is J/^' inch and D to 2 is ^ inch. 

Diagram E represents a standing turn-down col- 
lar. 

A to B is half neck. 
A to D and B to C is i^ inches. 
D to F and C to E is 2 inches. 
A to I is one inch and D to 2 is the same. 
F to 3 and 3 to 4 is i inch. 

Diagram F is a straight standing collar and is 
sometimes used in connection with a frill top collar, 
as illustrated in Diagram G. 

Make a circle as indicated by line i — 3; make a 
larger circle as per line 2 — 4. 

I to 3 is Yi of smaller circle; shape from 3 to 2 as 
shown in diagram. Inside edge i, 3, 4, is sewed on 
to the neck, or to band. Diagram F. 



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92 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



GENERAL INFORMATION. 



HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES. 

To insure a perfect fitting garment for all shapes 
and forms it is necessary to take particular pains 
when taking the measure. It matters not whether 
these measures be what is termed the short actual 
measures or the long shoulder measures; either can 
be applied on this system. Before taking the meas- 
ure it is well to remove all bows and other trimmings 
that may be on our client's dress bodice at neck and 
waist, for it is impossible to get a correct measure 
with these obstructions in our way; it takes but a 
few minutes to sew them on. 

Place a square under the arm and make a mark 
with chalk at bottom of scye in front and back of 
arm, then make a mark in center of back opposite 
mark made near arm; then proceed to measure. 
Place measure at top of back at neck (socket bone) 
and measure to front of arm to chalk-mark; this 
measure is called strap. Then continue the measure 
under the arm and up to top of neck; this measure 
is the upper shoulder. Then place end of tape in 
the center of back, between and opposite the arm or 
on an average of 4)2 inches down from top of neck; 
let tape lay over top of shoulder under the arm and 
up to starting point; this is the lower shoulder 
measure. Then take measure from top of neck at 
back to front of neck; then continue down to lower 
part of bust for top of dart, then down to full length 
of waist in front. Ne.xt measure side length from 
under part of arm to top of hip; then length of back 
from top of neck to waist, and full length of garment 
desired. Place square under arm and measure down 
to elbow and to hand for length of sleeve. Next 
measure around arm at shoulder for scye, then width 
at elbow and hand. The breast measure is taken 
moderately close above the bust; then lower tape in 
front, letting it remain in regular position in back, 
and measure easy over the largest part of bust. The 
waist measure is taken snug over the band of the 
skirt; for a longer garment it is necessary to take the 
hip measure. 

FOR SKIRTS. 

Measure the front, side and back length, waist and 
hip. Also, make a note of what size around the 
bottom. 



FOR BREECHES. 

Measure from waist to knee and to ankle for length. 
The rise may be taken from waist to seat of the 
chair, lady being in a sitting position. 

THE SHORT MEASURES. 

If the short instead of the shoulder measures are 
wanted, take the regular strap from bottom of scye 
in front of arm up to neck at back, then hold tape 
in front of arm and measure over shoulder to mark 
in center of back opposite bottom of scye; this 
measure is called first over shoulder. Then measure 
from front of scye over shoulder to bottom of scye 
close up to arm in back; this measure is called second 
over-shoulder, or closing measure. Then take depth 
of scye from top of neck to point marked in center 
of back on a level or horizontal line with bottom of 
arm-scye; this measure is called the depth of scye. 

These are the regular measures used. The cutter 
may take any other measure that he can apply in 
practice. 

CUTTING THE CLOTH. 

All patterns according to this method of drafting 
are without seams, and I hold that this is the only 
correct way of drafting the various styles of ladies' 
garments, for, unlike the gentlemen's garments, they 
vary a great deal in the amount or number of seams, 
for we have basques and waists with one, two and 
three side bodies, also one to two darts; sleeves with 
one or two seams; skirts with four to eleven gores; 
so the easiest as well as the most correct method is 
to cut ladies' garments without seams and add seams 
and outlets when cutting tHe cloth. 

In laying the pattern on the goods the forepart 
should lay so that the front seam of the first dart will 
run with the tread or lengthwise with the material, 
the back seam of first dart will then be on the bias; 
and the front seam of second dart on the length of 
goods and the back seam of second dart will be on 
the bias. The center seam of the back should lay 
with edge of goods at top and in from the edge at 
waist about two inches. Lay the side body so that 
it matches the back, and under-armpiece to match 
the side body. 

The center of sleeve should run lengthwise. The 



SUPERLATIVE SYSTEM OF CUTTING LADIES' GARMENTS. 



93 



front of skirt is usually cut on the fold and all bias 
edges of the gores go to the back and the straight 
edges to the front unless there be an extra back gore, 
when the bias edges of the back gores meet the bias 
edges of the side gores. 

MAKING TO TRY ON. 

In silk waist or when other thin material is used 
for the waist, the lining is cut and fitted, then the 
lining is placed on a form or dummy and the outside 
goods is fitted to the lining. In cloth or woollen 
goods it is best to cut the cloth for the try-on. In 
basting up the waist for try on the back, side-body 
and underarm pieces should be sewed together, as it 
is found that the basting will not hold the waist 
together close enough; if basted, it must be done 
very carefully or the seams will pull apart. The side 
seams, also the darts, should be basted with the 
seams to the outside and the darts should not be cut 
out until after the garment is tried on. The sleeves 
and collar should be basted into try-on, and in deli- 
cate shades or light weight goods the skirt lining may 
be cut out and fitted and the outside goods cut from 
the lining. In silk and other light weight materials 
the goods and linings are basted together and sewed 
together in the seams; the seams are pressed open 
and bound. In woollen goods, the goods and lining 



are sewed up separate and put together the same as 
in gentlemen's garments. 

It is well to have a little extra size across the chest. 
A little too large over the bust is far better than 
snug, and unless the lady has a large bust it will be 
well to allow a little extra size over the bust and fill 
it up with stiffening and wadding. 

Large sized sleeves should be interlined with 
fibre chamois or scrim; also the skirt should be 
interlined with same material. 

A strip of French canvas, cut on the bias, 8 to lo 
inches wide, should be put in the bottom of the skirt. 
The bottom of skirt is finished with a corduroy or 
velvet binding. 

The dress reform skirt should reach 2 to 3 inches 
above the natural waist and button on to a waist, so 
that the skirt will hang on the shoulders instead of 
the hips. On the tailor-made gown, suit or wrap 
there should be no braiding or trimming of any kind, 
for in order to give it the stricdy tailor-made effect 
all fancy trimmings must be left off. 

Seams and edges may be stitched or strapped, and 
all ornamentations must be strictly tailor-made. A 
great number of first class tailors will insist on the 
left forepart overlapping the right forepart in front, 
the backtack being laid to the right the same as on a 
gentleman's coat. 



^ ^ «^ «^ «^ 




«^i* e^"* t3^ Ci?^ <5^ 



CHAS. J. STONE 

President and General Manager 



The Designing, Cutting and /Vlal(ing of 
Isadies' and Gentlemen's G arments 
of all Kinds Taught ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 



^ 



Instructions given daily (except Sunday) 
from 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. 



Evening Classes when necessary. Tuition 
must be paid in advance in all cases. 



<^*' (^^ t^^ t£^ t2^ 

THE INCREASING popularity of the Art of Ladies' Garment Cutting, as taught by this School, is 
demonstrated in a manner entirely satisfactory to us, and should be sufficient to impress upon those 
who are seeking the best system that we are prepared to impart information and thorough instruc- 
tion not equalled in this country. 

Our facilities are unequalled, and we aim to make our work so complete that when we have instructed 
a pupil, and indorsed him as competent, he is fully prepared to take a position in any first-class establish- 
ment, and fill it with acceptability to his employer and credit to us as his instructor. 

We find each session a greater demand than we are capable of accommodating. This we attribute to 
the acknowledged superiority of our Systems, and is an acceptable tribute to our proficiency as instructors. 
The Systems taught by us have received universal endorsement from the Cutting Fraternity as correct in 
theory and reliable in practice. 

Our charge for a thorough course of instruction is One Hundred Dollars paid in advance. 

The time usually occupied by students in perfecting themselves is about four weeks, although some 
few require more time, but we have no limit as to time for instruction, as it is our desire that no one shall 
leave our school until we are satisfied of their perfection. We cannot afford to have pupils leave us with 
but an indifferent knowledge of the theory of garment cutting; they must be perfect before we will furnish 
them with a certificate. Under no circumstances will we issue diplomas unless convinced of the ability 
of the pupils to satisfactorily use the Systems taught them. 



RELIABLE MODEL PATTERNS 



~><FORNr=C_ 



LADIES' BARMENTS 



SIZE EACH FULL SET 

Basque, bust 28-40 . . g i . 00 . . S i o . 00 

Jackets, any style, bust 28-40.. i . 00 . . 10.00 

D. B. Reefer, bust 28-40.. i.oo.. 10.00 

Cutaway Coats, bust 28-40.. i.oo.. 10.00 

D. B. Frock, bust 28-40 . . 1.25 

D. B. Ulster, bust 28-40 . . 1.25 

D. B. Vest, bust 28-40 . . .50 

Costume Skirt, waist 20-32 . . .75 

Riding Skirt, waist 20-32 . . i .50 

Divided Riding Skirt, waist . . 20-32 . . 1.50 



12 .00 

1 2 .00 

5.00 

7-5° 
10 .00 
10 .00 



SIZE 



Riding Breeches, waist 20-32 

Leggins 

Caps 6- 7 

Bicycle Coats, bust 28-40 

Bicycle Skirts, waist 20-32 

Golf Capes, bust 28-40 

Double Capes, bust 28-40 

Three Decker Cape, bust. . ..28-40 
Single Sleeves 28-40 



EACH 


FULL SET 


..go. 75 


■« 7-5° 


■25 


• 2.50 


•• -SO 


• 3- 00 


. . 1 .00 


. 10.00 


•■ -75 


■ 7-50 


• -75 


• 7-50 


. . 1 .00 


. 10.00 


. . 1 .00 


. 10.00 


.. .50 


5 . 00 



All Other Patterns, Cut to Order, Single or in Sets, at Regular Prices 




Issued on the 15th of each month 



SUBSCRIPTION PRICE 

$§.00 PER YEAR 



Tactical Journal 



Chuck Full of Practical 

Information 

of how to Cut and Mal<e 



UP-TO-DATE 
GARMENTS 



..FOR LADIES AND 

GENTLEMEN 



Thb Chas. J. Stone Co. 



PUBLISHERS 



194 & 196 Lfl Sf^LLE STREET 



^'^^(^>^C^\Cf\GO 



Works on ruttingf 

^^ ^ . - - — -. 



FOR SALE AT OL'R OFFICE. 



•8e;®c' 



*•*. 



Stone's New Superlative System of 
• Designing and Cutting ^ 

Ladies' and Gentlemen's * 



Garments ^ ^ ^ ^ 

The Author of this System has spent twenty years at the cutting board; he has taken 
an active part in advancing the custom cutter, and organized cutters' societies. He has 
always been a leader in practical work, always ready to exchange ideas with leading 
men in our profession, and after all these twenty years of hard study, he has now the satis- 
faction of having hundreds of pupils using his methods of cutting, and we refer you to our 
students who have carried off medals and prizes at conventions held by the National Custom 
Cutters' Association of America. 

Stone's Superlative SvJstem of Cutting laadies' Garments, $10.00 

Stone's Superlative Coat and Vest System (new), = 5.00 

Stone's Superlative Trouser Sjjstcm (new), = = = 5.00 

Stone's Paramount Coat, Vest and Trouser System, = 5.00 

Stone's Superlative Shirt and Drawer SvJstem, - = 3.00 

The above works on Cutting is what we teach in our School, and will be sent prepaid by 
mail on receipt of price. 

Send Chicago Exchange or Postoffice Order and the book will be sent by mail. No book 
will be sent C. O. D. 

Correspondence must, in all cases, be addressed to the house. 

Address all orders to THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

194 and 196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO, ILL 
All communications will receive prompt attention. 








THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. — — > 
CUTTING SCHOOL- 



Terms for Instruction— to be paid in advance 



194-196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO 



For a complete course of Instruction (to Practical Tailors) in Gentlemen's Garment Cutting (time unlimited) $100 00 

Coat System, alone 50 GO 

Vest System, alone 25 00 

Trouser System, alor.e , 35 00 

Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters 50 00 

Gra 



rading. 
Boys and Children 



50 00 
100 00 



LADIES' CUTTING 

For complete course of Ladies' Garments $100 00 

Ladies' Basques, Jackets and all Over Garments 50 OO 

Ladies' Basque, Bodice, Sleeves and Skirts 25 00 

PRACTICAL CUTTERS 

Desiring to change their Systems, limited to twelve days, Coats, Vests and Trousers $ 50 00 

Price to Cutters for Coat System, alone 30 00 

" " Trouser System, alone 15 00 

" •' Vest System, alone 15 00 

** " Fancy Garments, Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Over Gaiters 25 00 

PRACTICAL CUTTERS 

Eor special and private instruction In measuring, drafting, or explaining points in Coats, Vests, Trousers or Grading, 

Cutting by Block Patterns, or Ladies' Cutting, occupying from one hour to one day $5.00 to $25.00 

I^°This is a Special Feature. 

Address, CHAS. J. STONE, Priuate Office, 

The Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, CHICAGO, ILL. 



( 12 ) 



-^STQNE•S RELIABLE BLOCK PA^ERNS•^ 

I ' 

PRICES OF PATTERNS IN SETS. 

Men's Overcoats, from 33 to 42 breast measure - • - . $12 00 

" Undercoats, 33 to 42 " " - . . . - 10 00 

" Trousers, 29 to 42 waist " - - - - 10 00 

Vest, 32 to 42 breast '* - - - . - 6 00 

Ladies' Jackets, 32 to 42 bust " .... 10 00 

Ulsters, Dolmans, etc., 32 1042 bust measure - - - • 12 00 

Boys' Overcoats, from 10 to 18 years -.-.-. 8 00 

" Undercoats, 10 to 18 " - - - - - . 6 00 

" Trousers, 10 to 18 " • - - - - - 6 00 

" Vests, 10 to 18 " 

A discount of 15 per cent, will be allowed on all orders over $25. 00. 



5 00 



Prices of Single Patterns, 



whether Cut to Measure given 
or Regular Blocks. 



Undercoats, any style - - - - - - $100 

Trousers and Vest, each ----..-. y^ 

Overcoats, any style or size ....-.- j^o 

Cape, or other Fancy Overcoats - - - - - - -2 00 

r^Or special n^a-tternS the following measures are necessary: 

The Breast Measure for Overcoats, which should be given as taken over the vest, and 
unless it is especially stated that it is taken over the coat, it will be so used. 

The measures necessary for all Undercoats to order are: Length of coat, length of sleeve 
breast, waist, hip and seat measures (the hip measure to be taken around the form where the 
waist seam is located). This measure is of vast importance for all skirt coats. Get height of 
customer, and, if possible, a concise description of the figure for whom it is intended. 

For Vests and Trousers the usual measures. The form of customer should be briefly 
described. 

All orders for Patterns must be accompanied by a cash Remittance of at least 50 percent. 
of the amount ordered, to receive attention. 

Address all orders to THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

194 and 196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO, ILL 



CUTTERS' AND TAILORS' SUPPLIES. 



A Selected Assortment of Tailors' Implements of every description. 
The Best in the Market, and the Tools most generally used, 

at reasonable prices. 




3 

3K 

4 


inch . 

( < 


1% 
8 

8>^ 


inch 

1 1 


8>^ 


inch . 


5 in 


ch . 



PRICE LI5T.— R. Heinisch'8 Sons Co. 

SHEARS. 

$2.75 
• 3-00 

3-75 



$0.65 

• 70 

80 



5 11 


nch . . . 5.50 


8 inch 


• 7-75 


t) 


^ 00 


9 " 


• ■ • 8.75 


7 


• 0.75 
BENT TRIMMERS. 


10 " . 


• 9-50 


9 


inch . . . $0.90 


12 inch 


. $1.50 


10 


... 1 . 00 


13 " • 


• 1-75 


1 1 
BEN 


"... 1.25 
T TRIMMERS— LEFT HAND 


14 '• 


2.00 


. 


.$0.85 1 II inch 


• 


$1.50 




TAILORS' POINTS, 







40c. 



inch. 



Squares, etc. 



Boxwood Squares, Regular Divisions, 

Satinwood Squares, Regular Divisions, 

45 Inch Jointed Stick, brass tipped, . 

45 Inch Stick, ...,.., 

Curved Stick, . . . . 

Davidson's Patent Square, boxwood only, 24 x 14, 

Sliding Arm Square for taking short measures, 



45c. I 6 inch 



24X 14, SI. 75; 

24x14, 1.50; 



24X 12, 
24 X 12, 



50c. 



$1.50 

1-25 
1.50 

•75 

•35 

2^75 

1.50 



In ordering Squares, be sure to state whether you want the division of 3rds or 4ths on 
the long arm. Send in your orders with the money, and any article ordered will be sent by 
return express. No goods sent C. O. D. unless one-half of the price accompanies the order. 
If there is anything you want (not on our list), send us the name and description and we will 
get it for you. 

Send Post Office Money or Express Order. If you send personal checks, add 15 cents 
extra for collecting same. 

Address all orders to the ChAS. J. StONE Co., 196 La Salle St., Chicago. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




